40: Queen Victoria 2011 Two Queens' Winter Transatlantic & New York
5th - 13th January 2011
This was the first stage of my first cruise entirely on my own and something of an adventure! The trip began with a Transatlantic crossing to New York aboard
Queen Victoria, a "new ship" for me and a crossing sailed in tandem with the brand new Queen Elizabeth making her
maiden crossing of the Atlantic; in New York, I would transfer
to Queen Mary 2 for the rest of my voyage to South America, Rio de Janeiro and Montevideo, then
back across the South Atlantic to Cape Town!
New York, USA disembark Queen Victoria & transfer to Queen Mary 2
All the photos of Queen Victoria & Queen Elizabeth taken on this cruise can be found on my account at Captain Martini >>
Wednesday 5th January Boarding in Southampton
Accompanied by John, I arrived by car at the Terminal early and John took the car home while I joined the bustling crowd.
Fortunately, having travelled so many miles with Cunard, one of the privileges of being a "Diamond Member" of the Cunard World Club
is "priority check-in", so I quickly by-passed most of the queues and was in my cabin in 45 minutes! My luggage however, took 2 hours but
at least I had time to have lunch and settle-in.
( The Grand Lobby )
Accommodation
Considering that this part of my winter adventure was "free", I was yet again fortunate to have been allocated an A5-grade balcony cabin (no.4184),
a standard double cabin aft on Deck 4.
As with most modern cabins, mine was comfortably appointed and spacious (especially for one!).
But the best feature was my complimentary bottle of sparkling wine - opened immediately!
( Above: My A5-grade Balcony Cabin no.4184 )
Twelfth Night must be a popular night for cruises after Christmas, because there were 6 ships all departing on their World Cruises today!
And it was special for me too because exactly 4 years ago tonight, John & I departed aboard Black Watch on our fabulous 79-night "Around Africa" cruise.
(Above: Aside from the two Queens, the line-up included: P&O's Arcadia, Saga Ruby and Fred Olsen's Black Watch
& Balmoral)
Tonight Queen Victoria was scheduled to leave first but we were delayed (I later learned that an unfortunate passenger had suffered a heart-attack!);
so Queen Elizabeth sailed first, to a display of fireworks for her maiden Atlantic departure. There were lots of exchanges
of ships’ whistles and as Queen Elizabeth sailed past us, the noise was deafening, as each ship tried to “out-blast” the other!
It was like a scene from “Close Encounters”; I never heard such a racket – it was brilliant!
The Departure of Queen Elizabeth & the "Battle of the Ships' Whistles" (Thanks to Steve Braithwaite for the video!)
P&O's Arcadia departs on her World Voyage
Fred Olsen's Balmoral also departing
All the photos of Queen Victoria & Queen Elizabeth taken on this cruise can be found on my account at Captain Martini >>
It was cold and wet on deck, so having watched Queen Elizabeth's noisy departure, I retreated to the shelter of my cabin balcony to watch P&O's Arcadia
and Fred Olsen's Balmoral slip quietly away before Queen Victoria finally moved out into the channel, made her turn and got under way - just in time
for me to get ready for Dinner and to take my place in the Britannia Restaurant.
The Britannia Restaurant(Decks 2 & 3 aft)
The grand centre-piece and balconied main section of the Restaurant evoke that post-war style with which Cunard is today assoociated. However, with
the galleys on the port side, there are windows only on the starboard side.
My table, however, was in the aft-facing section on Deck 2 (see right >>) where the low ceiling-height could make the room feel claustrophobic,
were it not for the windows on 3 sides and a good spacing between tables, enabling the stewards to serve correctly.
My table companions proved to be a pleasant group, all singles, like me; and service from our stewards Nicolas & Jay was competent and cheerful. As for the menu selection,
this followed the same pattern as that on Queen Mary 2 and while it was considerably less extensive than that offered
by Celebrity Cruises for instance, I found the range of choice quite adequate for my tastes.
Sample Menus:-First Night Dinner Menu >>,
First Formal Dinner Menu >>, The Farewell Dinner Menu >>,
Last Night Dinner Menu >>
Thursday 6th - Wednesday 12th January 7 Days at Sea
Opening my curtains next morning, I was greeted by the sight of Queen Elizabeth, about a mile away on our port side, and was reminded of
that rare event of which I was now part; the Maiden Tandem Atlantic Crossing of 2 Cunard Ocean Liners.
We were also making history in another way on this voyage, with Cunard's appointment of their first female Captain, Danish-born Inger Olsen, giving rise
to the inevitable jokes about women drivers and women not being able to read maps!
Queen Elizabeth from my window!
Captain Inger Olsen
The first task each day was a brisk walk on deck; 6 times around the Promenade Deck (about 2 miles) might have been possible, if they hadn't blocked-off
the forward crossing for crew use, and it's a shame that real teak has given way to a supposedly non-slip "look-a-like" surface, but there's a great view
from the aft Promenade, nicely sheltered from the wind and spray.
Atlantic Sunrise From the aft Promenade
The Pavilion Pool But uncovered?
Promenade Deck No teak & not "wrap-around"
End of the Rainbow
A major drawback in the ship's design is the lack of a covered swimming-pool; this seems to have been a questionable decision for an "Atlantic Liner".
The attractive but tiny Spa-pool is available only to paying guests and in any event, is quite unsuitable for
swimming See photo >>; there are two outdoor heated public pools,
the Lido aft and the Pavilion Pool midships, but both are too exposed for dashing across the open deck in cold weather, especially in January, on the
North Atlantic!
A Change of Pace
By Saturday, the sea had started to get a little choppy and by mid-afternoon, I was overtaken with tiredness – probably the accumulation
of the first two (quite eventful) days, getting used to a new ship and new routines, as well as being on my own, meeting new people, taking pictures,
etc. So I lay down at 3.30 for a nap and the next thing I knew, I awoke and it was dark and 5.40pm! I thought I wouldn’t make the Captain’s Cocktail
Party but I rallied and once there, two glasses of champagne and a snatched canapé made me feel much better!
The Queens Room (Decks 2 & 3 midships)
It has long been the line's signature feature, providing a traditional ballroom with a full-size dance floor and this is also where
the cocktail parties are held - two usually, plus an extra one for "Platinum & Diamond" Members! Right: My Formal Portrait >>
I tried attending the ballroom dance classes also held here during the day but on this voyage, the teaching-style and Eastern European accents of the
dance instructors, Artsiom & Volha, proved something a stumbling-block!
Another of the "perks" of Diamond Cunard World Club Membership, aside from a third cocktail party and an exclusive wine-tasting event,
was a "free lunch" in the ship's speciality dining venue, the Todd English Restaurant, where there is usually an additional cover-charge of $15-25.
Todd English Restaurant(Decks 2 midships)
With great views of the sea, this is Cunard's signature speciality restaurant, introduced on Queen Mary 2
in 2004. visit toddenglish.com >>
Adapted with flair and panache, the eclectic menu of rustic mediterranean-style dishes is well worth the additional cover charge for a long, lingering lunch or dinner.
Menus:Lunch (pt.1) >>
, Lunch (pt.2) >>
& Dinner (pt.1) >>
, Dinner (pt.2) >>
(left) Souding the Ship's Bell at noon, outside the Todd English Restaurant (right)
Fellow "Diamond" table companion Mary & I enjoyed a delightfully indulgent lunch here, although I was not as impressed as Andrew & I were in the
same restaurant on Queen Mary 2 last year; service was slow and my flatbread was rather like cardboard but we were so absorbed
in conversation that it didn't matter and we were the last to leave at nearly 3pm, having had a thoroughly good time!
Breakfast and lunch most days was taken in the Lido Restaurant (Deck 9 - see below). Self-service restaurants have come a long way in recent years
and while this one is a little disjointed in layout, it has good serveries and ample, spacious seating. The Pasta counter provided a really nice lunch too, if you are
prepared to wait in the queue!
Lido Restaurant Deck 9
Cafe Carinthia Decks 2
The Library Decks 2 & 3
Royal Arcade Victoriana galore!
Alternatively, a highly civilised light lunch can be found in the Cafe Carinthia (Deck 3), where I also explored their range of liqueur coffees
on more than a morning or two!
The Commodore Club (Deck 10 fwd)
Larger and less intimate than its namesake on Queen Mary 2 but just as comfortable, this impressive lounge spans the width of the ship, with and a spectactular
180-degree sea-view.
The Commodore Club (deck 10 fwd) - the place for a Martini!
This lounge quickly became
my "lounge of choice" for an early evening cocktail with friends; it wasn't exactly the Lynch Martini Club but there was an impressive Martini selection and it was where
I discovered "Grey Goose Pear Vodka", amongst other things!
Ship models of QE2 and QM2 grace the room's 2 entrances and other maritime art includes a mural
of "Russia & Persia on the Thames" by Jeremy Sanders. Adjacent is Churchill's, a cigar lounge.
Mural
QE2 Model
QM2 Model
Churchill's
The Royal Court Theatre (Decks 1-3 forward)
Something of an anachronism for a modern cruise ship, this reproduction of a Victorian theatre comes complete with red plush-velvet seats and private boxes,
the access to which creates curious little stepped passageways round the sides. But
it was very comfortable nonetheless and I enjoyed some excellent daytime talks
here (speakers included maritime historian John Maxtone-Graham and contraversial celebrity ex-MP Lembit Opik).
The evening entertainment followed the usual pattern of cabaret artists,
a comedian and two productions shows; the first one was quite good but the second followed an "Old Time Music Hall" theme, culminating in an excruciatingly
embarrassing attempt at "Land of Hope & Glory"!
The weather during the first part of the voyage was chilly but dry and the sea conditions benign, so it became a regular thrill during my morning
walk to see Queen Elizabeth off our starboard side, a position she took up after the first day and maintained for the rest of the voyage.
Queen Elizabeth (90,400 grt)
Captain Martini & Queen Elizabeth
View of Queen Elizabeth's Bulbous bow
Tandem Crossing
By Monday however, both ships were over the Grand Banks off Newfoundland and it had turned suddenly much colder. Indeed, that previous night,
we encountered fog-banks and through the misty darkness, there was the eery sound of the ship's fog-horn at regular intervals.
In an alarming "Titanic-moment" that afternoon, the grey cliffs of Cape Race
appeared like an ice-berg ahead of us before
the ship made a surprisingly sharp detour around it!
The weather further deteriorated after that. I knew it was going to be bad because when I went back to my cabin after dinner, my
stewardess had put the ice-bucket under the table! I nearly fell out of the shower in the morning and it was very blustery on deck
but I was nearly locked-out when they closed the decks and started lashing things down! (right) A calm between storms >>
Gale Force 10!
By Wednesday, with nowhere else to go, we were heading straight into the teeth of a gale! The outer decks were closed
so I had to take this video clip of Queen Elizabeth through a window on Promenade Deck.
The second video clip here was taken by "portiz79" in the Commodore Club on Deck 10 of Queen Elizabeth!
During the worst of the weather in the afternoon, the ship slowed right down to less than 8 knots and the cabin television stopped telling us the
wave height once it reached 25 feet! Nevertheless, I was surprised at how well Queen Victoria handled the bad weather and how stable she remained.
Even so, Dinner was a subdued affair, with two of my companions absent and a menu selection that revealed the
chef's preference for dishes prepared in heavy pans! Last Night Dinner Menu >>
So with my luggage put outside the cabin for tomorrow, it was early to bed and another hour back on the clock!
The Three Queens at New York
In anticipation of the "Royal Rendezvous" with QM2 tomorrow in New York, Cunard had commissioned a painting by renowned maritime artist Robert G Lloyd
of all 3 Cunard Queens together in New York Harbor. Sold as a limited edition of just 575, I had to have one - and have it signed by Captain Inger Olsen as well!
Thursday 13th January New York, USA
In spite of yesterday's bad weather, we were at Ambrose Light around 2.45am and I stirred when the engines stopped,
as we waited for the pilot. Then around 4.00am, we passed under the Verrazano Bridge and I got dressed
to go up on deck.
Statue of Liberty at 5.00 am!
Queen Elizabeth at her berth
It was bitterly cold; the temperature was -5 deg C but with the biting wind, the "wind-chill factor" made it feel like -13 deg C! In fact, it was so cold
that I put my pyjamas back on under the rest of my clothes and with so many layers on, I felt like one of those Russian dolls!
At 5.00 am, we passed the Statue of Liberty; Queen Elizabeth
was behind us but there was no sign of Queen Mary 2, as we passed her Brooklyn berth, so I went in for a Full English Breakfast, to
set me up for the day - I was going to need it; there was 18 inches of snow on the ground!
USS Intrepid Air/Sea Museum
The 2 Queens From the Weehawken Ferry
The Cliffs (& steps!) at Weehawken
Queen Victoria & W 50th Street
Disembarkation was painfully slow and even with my "Diamond Membership", I didn't get away until 10.00am. My luggage was all supposed to go on ahead to
Queen Mary 2, so it was strange leaving the ship with just my camera and a few belongings in my back-pack but by this time, the sun was out and there was
a clear blue sky, so I set off in the snow past the USS Intrepid Air/Sea Museum for the 39th Street Ferry Terminal and the ferry across the Hudson River to Weehawken.
Why? For the view from on top of the cliffs of course! And with over 200 steps to climb, that breakfast came in handy!
It's worth the climb though because the view of Manhattan from the top is just amazing, although the little park that was my objective
was almost lost beneath the snow!
For Rent
Hamilton Park Weehawken Heights
The Manhattan Skyline: Queen Victoria & Queen Elizabeth (left), USS Intrepid (centre) & the 1,250 ft Empire State Building (right)
From here, I made my way back down to the ferry, for my last daylight views of the 2 Queens; then by way of the free bus service up to
Times Square and the Marriott Hotel, where the shuttle-bus for Queen Mary 2 was waiting.
account at Captain Martini >>
