The Cunard Line has an illustrious history forged on the North Atlantic since 1840 with great liners such as Mauretania & Lusitania (1907),
Aquitania (1914), Queen Mary (1936) and Queen Elizabeth (1940), culminating in 1969
with what everyone expected to be the last transatlantic liner to be built, Queen Elizabeth 2; even QE2 was
designed to spend a good part of her time cruising.
Nevertheless, Cunard always came back to its traditional roots and, as QE2 matured towards old-age, there was a whistful longing to bring back
the great days of transatlantic sea-travel. But two things were clear; there was no money for a new liner and without one, there could be no Cunard.
In 1996, Trafalgar House (which had owned Cunard since 1971) was itself taken over by Kvaerner, the Norwegian engineering and construction company.
Then in 1998, Cunard was sold by Kvaerner to the international Carnival Corporation which, in an ironic move,
would later merge with Cunard's old rival, P&O Princess Cruises, to become the World's largest cruise operator.
The way was now open for the building of a new ship for Cunard, a true "Ocean Liner", to sail alongside and ultimately to replace the now-aging QE2.
She would be called "Queen Mary 2".
Her high specification and the quantity of steel required in her construction resulted in an
unprecedented cost of $900, almost twice that of any cruise ship up to that time.
She was built by Chantiers de l'Atlantique at Saint-Nazaire, France, the same yard that had launched
the great French ships, Normandie in 1932 and France in 1960 but she was much larger;
she was the largest, longest, widest and tallest passenger ship ever built to date.
While she only held these records for a few years, she remains the largest Ocean Liner ever built and her design
affectionately copies a number of exterior features from her predecessors, QE2 and Queen Mary, as well as incorporating
a forward weather-deck similar to that of Normandie and aft twin-uptakes evoking those on the wonderful S.S. Rotterdam of 1959.
Three Queens: drawn to the same scale
Queen Mary (1936)
81,237grt; length 1,019ft; 28.5 knots
776 pass (1st), 784 (Tourist), 579 (3rd)
Queen Elizabeth 2 (as from 1994)
70,327grt; length 963ft; 28.5 knots
1,740 passengers (one-class cruising)
Towering 203 feet (62m) above the waterline, her rather squat funnel allows her to pass under the
Verrazano Bridge in New York. As it is, the clearance at high water can be as little as 13 ft (4m).
25th April 2004: Queen Mary 2 is joined by QE2 in New York
New York, April 2004
Handover to the new Flagship Queen Mary 2
The giant new "Queen Mary 2" (148,528 grt and the largest liner ever built) made her debut in January 2004 but it wasn't until 22nd April that she made her maiden arrival in New York,
where she was joined by QE2 to celebrate the official handover of the "Transatlantic Crossing" mantle.
In a rash demonstration of devotion, I flew to New York to be there for the celebrations!
Queen Elizabeth 2 & Queen Mary 2
Queen Mary 2 departs
Celebration Fireworks! in front of the Statue of Liberty
On 25th April, both ships left New York to sail in tandem across the Atlantic to Southampton, their departure marked by a spectacular fireworks display.
From a sightseeing boat, and in the bitterly cold night air, I watched the celebrations against the backdrop of the floodlit Statue of Liberty.
NB The full collection of photos of QE2 & QM2 in New York 2004 can be viewed on my account here at Captain Martini >>
New York & Winter Transatlantic 3rd - 11th January 2010
The best way to experience a new ship, especially such a large one, is on an ocean crossing. So when an opportunity arose
to do a transatlantic crossing on Queen Mary 2, Andrew & I signed-up.
It had been 10 years since we last sailed with Cunard and we were immediatley impressed with the quality of pre-cruise documentation.
Our long association with Cunard had also paid unexpected dividends in the form of limousine transfers and priority boarding arrangements,
so that any concerns we may have had about large ships having long queues were quickly dispelled.
Welcome Aboard!
The Grand Lobby & Ship's Bell Decks 2-6, Midships
B4-grade Premium Balcony Cabin #4021
Our "sheltered balcony"
Boarding is through the Grand Lobby, situated on Decks 2 & 3 but which has an atrium above it, up to Deck 6, with 2 scenic lifts which go up
as far as Deck 7, Promenade Deck. Although the atrium has no natural light, a number of inside cabin windows look into it.
Our accommodation on Deck 4 took the form of a B4-grade "Premium Balcony Cabin". The cabin itself was very comfortable and was equipped with all
the usual elements, including free sparkling wine and a fridge. However, the cabin was not large, partly due to the balcony, which was unusual in being inside the
body of the ship and hence, "sheltered" from the wind and spray, something we found to be an advantage. However, I would have preferred the rail to be just a little bit lower!
She's long! (see right) The Deck 4 corridor from 'A' stairway to beyond 'D' stairway is 750ft long!
Designed primarily as an ocean liner, the layout of Queen Mary 2 is different from that of most cruise ships. Her main lounge and
theatre decks are low down in the ship together with her main restaurant, for better stability on the Atlantic.
And while most cruise ships have the buffet and sports facilities with the pool and sundeck high-up, QM2
locates most of these facilites on Promenade Deck. On this ship however, with 13 decks, this is Deck 7 - higher
than on other ships apart from QE2 (her promenade deck was Deck 8); again, better protection from the Atlantic spray.
I confess to being slightly underwhelmed by the Grand Lobby, which I don't feel lives up to its name, but
pride of place in the atrium above goes to John McKenna's sheet bronze relief (measuring 6.5m by 7.0m),
inspired by the Art Deco mural in the main Dining Room on the first Queen Mary.
Grand Lobby Deck 2
John McKenna's 6.5 x 7m Sheet Bronze Relief above the Atrium
The Veuve Clicquot Champagne Bar Deck 3 midships, off The Grand Lobby
The upper level of the Grand Lobby is Deck 3, which contains the obligatory arcade of extravagent shops but here you find the sophisticated
Veuve Clicquot Champagne Bar and the rather sumptuous Chart Room leading off it. Quiet and restful during the day, both come alive after dark,
when they become quite busy and crowded. Aside from the striking etched-glass images of its namesake, Sir Samuel Cunard, the otherwise austere furnishings of Sir Samuel's
however, the coffee lounge/wine bar, are strangely out of keeping with the rest of this deck but with its view of the sea, it's a perfect spot for mid-morning coffee and
lunchtime snacks, as well as a popular bar in the evening.
The Chart Room Deck 3 midships
Sir Samuel's Wine Bar Deck 3 (Internet photo)
Golden Lion Pub Deck 2 midships
Empire Casino Deck 2 midships
The lower level of the Grand Lobby leads you into the Empire Casino, a louche saloon-style gambling-den, if ever there was one! On
the starboard side is the Golden Lion Pub, a nod to that surprisingly popular attraction which first appeared on QE2 in 1994.
Where the Chart Room gets busy after dark, the Golden Lion gets noisy at lunchtime and even rowdy at night, so it will not surprise you
that it would not be my choice of night-spot (or day-spot for that matter!). Consequently, it's a pity this is where the regular team quizzes are held, because
I missed them all!
"North America" Grand Corridor Deck 2
Grand Corridor Decks 2 & 3
"Winter" Grand Corridor Deck 3
"Aurora Borealis" Grand Corridor Deck 2
From the Grand Lobby on both Decks 2 & 3 leads the Grand Corridor, an attempt to evoke the "processional axis" of the magnificent
liners of the 1930's and 1940's. The walls are covered with a large number very impressive faux-bronze reliefs and murals which are fascinating in their
detail. Ultimately, the Grand Corridor leads on both decks to its destination, the Britannia Restaurant.
The Britannia Restaurant (Decks 2 & 3)
With its musicians' gallery & 2-deck high Tapestry >> by Barbara Broekman,
this is the main restaurant of the ship and it certainly says "Ocean Liner"!
While service from our stewards was impeccable, we were however, a little surprised by the menu.
Dinner Menus:Tuesday >>
, Wednesday >>
& Saturday >>
Perhaps the last 2 years cruising with Celebrity have spoiled us and our expectations were too high but we found much less choice and variety
in the menu selections available and on the first night, we were distinctly unimpressed. Then on the second night, I chose a rare steak and had to send it back,
it was over-done; an unfortunate mistake but not an auspicious start!
Generally though, the quality and presentation of dishes was good and as the week progressed, it seemed to me that the variety on the menu
improved until, by Saturday, I was spoiled for choice at every course! Nevertheless, the nightly "cheese selection" proved to be
four tiny pieces of cheese on one plate, with no choice and just a couple of biscuits! Hmm.
No single-class Dining aboard Queen Mary 2
Cunard is one of the last remaining companies to retain "class distinction" in its restaurants. It was ever thus on QE2; they called them Transatlantic Class, First Class and Grill Class. On QM2, the main
restaurant is the 2-sitting Britannia Restaurant but there is a section of it called the Britannia Club which is single sitting and includes a wider selection
on the menu. This is available to those passengers in grade-AA cabins only. The Princess Grill & Queens Grill are for those passengers in the various suites and duplexes aboard.
With their own private cocktail lounge, here the menu is haute cuisine and even more extensive.
In addition, speciality dining in the Todd English Restaurant is available to all passengers - but for an extra cover charge.
Whereas on most other lines, dining has become more egalitarian - and on Celebrity, that standard is extremely high - on Cunard, you can have the higher standard if you travel
in the right class of cabin or suite. I confess that I'm not happy about this but then, I can't afford to travel in a Queens Grill Suite and perhaps my view would be different if I could!
The upper level of the Britannia Restaurant is terraced and this disguises a rather novel innovation on QM2. The Restaurant occupies the full width of the ship on Decks 2 & 3 and
for passengers to reach the Queens Room beyond it on Deck 3, there are "tween deck" corridors on each side below Deck 3, called "Deck 3L". One of these doubles as the Photo Gallery,
while the other doubles as the ubiquitous Art Gallery (see right).
The Queen's Room (Deck 3 aft)
This is the largest Ballroom at sea and it has an impressive dance-floor and a number of very nice touches, including various items of royal memorabilia
and two bronze busts, one of King George V & of course, one of Queen Mary.
(left) The "proscenium" stage and (right) the bust of Queen Mary
However, the impressive 1930's style "clamshell" arch and stage are smaller than you expect and a bit "cardboard" when you get up close.
And in comparison to the Queens Room on QE2 for instance, which cleverly disguised its square shape as a beautifully proportioned
rectangle (see Photo >>),
this room is much shorter than it is wide and it simply looks like any grand Ballroom in an expensive hotel on land.
Perhaps that isn't a criticism, but there are also two ramping walkways down both sides leading down to Deck 3L at the aft of the ship, lending
a "heath-robinson" aspect to the room.
Those ramping walkways through the Queens Room lead you to the ship's main nightclub on Deck 3L, called G32 (named after QM2's shipyard hull number).
With its nautical touches such as its submarine doors (see Photo >>),
I found this room to be modern, vibrant and imaginative - quite a contrast to the adjacent Queens Room you have to walk through to get here. It might not be
my idea of a perfect nightspot but it makes a brilliant disco/nightclub.
(left) The G32 Disco/Night Club, aft of the Queens Room on Deck 3L
Forward from the Grand Lobby on Decks 2 & 3 is the Royal Court Theatre, seating about 1,100. With its enormous stage and state-of-the-art
lighting and sound system, this is the main entertainment venue.
(left) The Royal Court Theatre & (right) one of the "Window Galleries"
As with the Restaurant, there are "tween deck" corridors here on both Decks 3L and 2L, the upper ones creating lovely Window Galleries where,
low down in the ship, you can sit and watch the sea.
Unfortunately, the Royal Court Theatre has a number of design flaws, not least being the 6 columns obstructing visibility in places and an Upper
Level access arrangement which forces latecomers to have to push past on the front row of the balcony. We had the usual mix of comedy, classical and vocal entertainers
and the Royal Cunard Singers & Dancers were themselves very good, although the 2 Production Shows we saw followed the usual pattern; one quite good, one mediocre.
However - Queen Mary 2 has not one but two Theatres and the second one is by far my favourite!
Illuminations Planetarium & Cinema (Deck 2/3 fwd)
Art Deco relief
The entrance to Illuminations Art Deco & Divine Statuary
By way of the "tween deck" corridors on Deck 3L, you reach Illuminations, a 473-seat theatre which is a tour-de-force in Art Deco.
Not only is this a creditable cinema (I watched the latest "Star Trek" movie here and believe me, it was creditable!)
it is also the home to the only Planetarium at sea, thanks to a state-of-the-art "Sky-Skan" digital projection system. By lowering the dome over the central
150 specially-adapted seats see Internet Photo >>, they put on 4 different shows
and each was pretty impressive, although they did have some image alignment issues during one
performance. It's a brilliant idea and I only hope they maintain the equipment properly over the years to come!
The main computer centre, Cunard Connexions is below here on Deck 2. With all-day tea & coffee facilities, it's actually an excellent suite of tutorial rooms,
two of which have an ample supply of computers. Our Cunard Club membership gave us a generous allowance of free time on the internet too,
but for those who have to pay, rather like the photograph costs, it's another frightful "rip-off"!
Deck 7 is Promenade Deck and this is the location for the Canyon Ranch Health Spa, which has one of the ship's 2 indoor pools but
which you can only use by paying the Club membership fee.
Health Spa Deck 7/8
The largely unpopular Winter Garden (Promenade Deck 7) and its unconvincing Trompe l'oeil ceiling
Kings Court "Alternative Dining" venue
This is also the location of the Winter Garden, a bar/lounge with a conservatory theme - of sorts. Unfortunately,
the design of this room simply doesn't work and this is confirmed by how few people were ever in it. Its "Rattan-style" chairs and
water feature are pleasant enough but there are just two rows of artificial potted trees and the "Trompe l'oeil" wall & ceiling art is far from convincing!
The Disaster that is King's Court
Deck 7 midships is also Kings Court, the main self-service restaurant. While this is a sensible location for Atlantic crossings, the layout
is a disaster! The reason lies in the fact that, in the evening, by means of screens and mood lighting,
it becomes the location of the ship's four "Alternative Dining" venues.
There is Lotus, for pan-Asian cuisine, La Piazza, for Italian dishes,
The Carvery, for traditional English roasts and Chef's Galley, where you can pay extra for an "interactive experience" with one of the chefs!
The concept is sound (casual dining is certainly more fashionable these days) but it is overly complicated and poorly executed;
and the effect at Breakfast & Lunch is to create a confusing jumble of similar serving areas lacking in identity, which are each too small and which create numerous congestion points.
It can also be difficult to find a seat near where you get your food and you end up wandering the soul-less tiled corridors which interfere with
this space and through which there is a constant flow of clattering trollies of dirty dishes and cutlery!
Even Casual Afternoon Tea (on sea days only) is less than a poor joke. With just a small section of the Carvery cordoned-off,
a cake & sandwich selection is laid out at 3.30pm but with inevitably long queues, you have to be patient. And at 4.30 on the dot,
the stewards close the area off and take the food away, so woe betide you if you turn up at 4.25pm expecting a light afternoon snack!
The Gymnasium (Deck 7 Forward) & the Promenade Protected Walkway
Bridge Tower from the Open Observation Deck
The windows of the Kings Court buffet look out onto the main Promenade Deck and you can watch the joggers go by (3 times round the deck
is almost exactly 1 nautical mile!). With nice wooden loungers and proper cushions, this is a great spot and surprisingly sheltered in places.
It's a shame there's no mid-morning bouillon like in the "old days" but
at least it's a "wrap-around" design, with a protected forward section from which, in good weather, they allow you
out onto the Open Observation Deck where the "Captain's Cufflinks" (8 spare propeller blades) are on display see Photo >>.
For an even better view, you can take one of the 2 Scenic Lifts up to Deck 11 and the Open Promenade, just below The Bridge.
Almost hidden-away up here, is the Atlantic Room, a really lovely Card Room.
(left) The Open Promenade, Deck 11 and (right) The Atlantic Room
Atlantic Wake
The Open Promenade Deck 11, below the Bridge
The "Normandie" Weather-Deck & the "Captain's Cufflinks"
"D" Stairway (aft)
"C" Stairway
"B" Stairway (midships)
"A" Stairway (forward)
The 4 colour-coded lift and stair towers are an innovation first introduced on QE2 in 1969.
Mind you, the red is a bit "Odeon Cinema" and the cream looks more like a few dozen dead leopards!
However, there are some beautiful Art Deco touches if you care to look for them see Photo >>
as well as a mind-blowing array of stunning nautical art on the landings. In the corridors leading from the foot of Stairway A Forward,
the fascinating interactive Maritime Quest >> traces the history of the
Transatlantic Crossing and can easily make you late for cocktails!
And on the subject of cocktails, the Commodore Club, situated forward on Deck 9 is a sumptuous retreat with a stunning
illuminated model of QM2 behind the bar, allegedly the largest model of QM2 at sea. It also boasts an impressive Martini menu; clearly,
this was to be our bar of choice!
The Commodore Club Deck 9, Forward
8,000 volumes and comfortable armchairs in The largest Library at sea (Deck 8)
This is the equivalent of the Look-Out Bar on QE2 that was sadly lost in the 1972 refit and which was never replaced. Cunard have at last made amends!
The view from here is great see Photo >>. However, with a similar view and immediately below on Deck 7,
is the Library. Boasting 8,000 volumes and 2 full-time librarians, this is the largest library at sea.
With lavish fixtures & fittings, comfortable chairs and more computers, there's also an excellent, well-stocked adjacent Bookshop.
Aft on Deck 8, below the 2-deck Duplex Apartments with views astern, is the ship's "Speciality Dining" venue, the Todd English Restaurant. This is a
"Reservations Only" restaurant and there is an additional cover charge of $20 for lunch, or $30 for dinner. It is said that "There's no such thing as a 'free lunch'"
but as a Diamond member of the Cunard Club, I was entitled to one, so we tried it.
Todd English Restaurant (Deck 8 aft)
visit toddenglish.com >> With an eclectic menu of rustic mediterranean-style dishes
adapted with flair and panache, presentation was not only stunning to look at but also mouth-wateringly delicious. This has to be just about the best lunch I've ever had!
Sample Menus:Typical Lunch Menu >>
& Typical Dinner Menu >>
The Restaurant looks out onto the Terrace, a sun-deck containing the main outdoor swimming-pool and jacuzzi. In warm weather, you can have lunch
served here "al-fresco" if you wish. I'm not sure about the juxtaposition of cuisine and sweaty bodies though, so on that idea I think I might pass!
The Queens Grill & Princess Grill
It is worth mentioning that both the Grills are located just below Todd English but they look out onto the Promenade on Deck 7, rather than directly out to sea,
as you might expect. Frankly, if I had paid that much money to travel in one of the Suites or Duplexes, I'm not sure I would want other passengers walking and jogging past my table!
I didn't manage to take any photos inside the Grills on this trip but see later in this Report for more photos and menus.
From the Sun Terrace aft on Deck 8, either side of the Todd English Restaurant, there are two unusual "secret" stairways running all
the way up to Deck 11 see Photo >>. Having climbed 3 decks in one go, when you get there,
there's a little sign saying, "Deck Reserved for Grill Suite Passengers". Perhaps they should consider putting the sign at the bottom? Not that it would have stopped me!
The "secret" 3-deck stairway & the Grill-Suites Terrace
The Boardwalk Deck 12 aft
Pavilion Pool Deck 12 midships
Up on Deck 12 is the Boardwalk, between the main funnel and those iconic twin uptakes which bring to mind the beautiful S.S. Rotterdam of 1959.
Unfortunately, it's an otherwise characterless space that is crying-out to have a sliding glass roof over it, if you ask me! However, "weather permitting",
they operate a cafe here as another alternative dining venue for lunch.
What does have a sliding glass roof is the Pavilion Pool, just forward of the funnel on Deck 12. Open 24hrs a day (which is very good), this was ideal
for my dip at 6.45 every morning when no-one else was there. However, it's far too small for a ship this size and it's also the only
covered pool available, unless you want to pay to use the spa pool in the Canyon Ranch Health Club on Deck 7.
The Open Sundeck (Deck 13) & Funnel The original Queen Mary's whistle is on the left (starboard)
Signal Mast
The Lookout Deck 13 above the Bridge
The Sundeck up on Deck 13 is vast and here you appreciate just how big QM2 is! The 2 whistles mounted either side of the funnel
are so loud they have a range of 10 miles and the starboard one is actually one of the original whistles from Queen Mary of 1936, while the other
is an exact copy.
Up forward is
The Lookout, a protected walkway above The Bridge, while inside on Deck 12, on sea days they open
the Bridge Viewing Area >>, a disappointing corridor with 3 windows
round the back of The Bridge. Regrettably, in these days of high-security paranoia, is this the best we can expect?
Queen Mary 2was designed with a cruising speed of about 26 knots (not as fast as QE2
but still much faster than most cruise ships) so as to make the crossing to New York in 6 days. In addition, if necessary,
she can do up to 30 knots, enabling her to make up any time lost by bad weather delays. However from 2010, in an effort to further
reduce fuel costs, Cunard have extended her crossings to 7 days westbound and 8 days eastbound, requiring a cruising speed of only about 22
knots, which is still faster than most cruise ships.
The "Transatlantic Crossing" is no longer just a means of getting from one continent
to the other; it is a holiday in itself - and the extra night aboard means more revenue from passengers, of course!
QM2 is also too large to transit the Panama Canal but since QE2 only used to do that once or twice a year, this was a design compromise
in favour of a bigger ship being more economical.
Eager to discover how Queen Mary 2 performs as a cruise ship, and enticed by a particularly exciting itinerary, I boarded again in New York, for the 3-week voyage to Cape Town!
New York, Rio de Janeiro & Cape Town, South Africa 13th January - 5th February 2011
This voyage commenced with a spectacular "Royal Rendezvous" of all 3 Queens in the Cunard fleet; Queen Victoria,
the new Queen Elizabeth and flagship, Queen Mary 2.
Having sailed to New York aboard Queen Victoria in tandem with Queen Elizabeth, making her maiden transatlantic crossing, I boarded
Queen Mary 2 as all 3 ships departed to an impressive fireworks display before the Statue of Liberty.
Directly above the Bridge is The Lookout, a sheltered walkway, not particularly suitable for photography but nonetheless popular
with passengers, not least for watching fireworks displays!
The Lookout The forward viewing area above the Bridge
The Bridge from the Viewing Area (Deck 12 - sea days only)
3rd Officer Conor Mulligan prepares the noon log
Inside on Deck 12 below The Lookout, on sea days they open the
Bridge Viewing Area >>, a slightly disappointing corridor
with 3 windows round the back of The Bridge. Regrettably, this is the best we can expect in these days of high-security
but even so, quiet observation can still be interesting.
The Queens Grill & Princess Grill
The fact that my Lifeboat Muster-Station was the Queens Grill Restaurant emboldened me later in the cruise, to sneak back in there,
past its fearsome "sentry", in order to take photographs.
The Private Queens Grill Lounge
The Queens Grill For passengers travelling in the highest-grade suites
The view onto the deck
The decor of the Grills is surprisingly understated; only the concealed lighting in the ceiling trimmed in gold-leaf suggests anything special about either restaurant.
But as I observed before, the outlook onto Promenade Deck, rather than directly to the sea, seems hardly appropriate. If I had paid to travel in one of the suites, I
would not appreciate walkers, joggers or worse, sunbathers, directly outside my "exclusive" restaurant!
The Princess Grill For passengers in the "lower-grade" suites!
The view onto the deck
Almost identical to the Queens Grill but on the port-side of the Promenade, is the Princess Grill. Here I was also able to obtain two sample menus
which were more extensive in choice than their equivalent in the Britannia Restaurant.
Souvenir Menus from the Princess Grill >>
Typical Dinner Menu
Typical Menu a la Carte
Appetisers & Soups
Entrees & Desserts
Appetisers
Entrees & Desserts
The difference between the two Grills however, aside perhaps from the standard of service, is that whereas in the Princess Grill, the a la carte menu is available only on designated evenings,
in the Queens Grill it (and more besides, probably) is available at all times.
She's not perfect but she has many wonderful features and thanks to healthy competition from other lines,
the standard of Cunard cuisine and service have probably never been so high.
QM2 has already become an icon and is every inch the "Ocean Liner" she was
intended to be. British by design, it's a pity she had to be built in France instead of on the Clyde, like the other Queens
and it's a shame Cunard is now American-owned, but we can still be proud of her just the same!
Total Mileage on board Queen Mary 2: 13,716 n miles