Saturday 5th February 2011 Cape Town, South Africa (Day 2) - Disembarkation Having arrived yesterday aboard Queen Mary 2, I had already enjoyed a fantastic afternoon trip up Table Mountain but today I had to disembark and check-in to my hotel for 2 more nights! But in the Duncan Dock, where QM2 was obliged to dock, the "Cruise Terminal" was nothing more, nor less than a huge marquee! (left) The marquee that serves as a Cruise terminal in Cape Town's Duncan Dock!

As my hotel check-in time wasn't until much later, I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and went to wait in the quiet comfort of the Commodore Club, today reserved for Cunard World Diamond Members.

By waiting until 9.00am, I suppose I missed the rush ashore because I located by bags in the huge marquee without any difficulty and soon found a taxi outside. By 9.30am, I was at my hotel! I was still too early and I had expected to have to leave my bags and come back later to check-in but they even checked me in immediately, which was a bonus I hadn't expected.

The Bows of QM2 & Table Mountain		The 4-star Townhouse Hotel		My Hotel Room		The view of Table Mountain

		The 4-star Townhouse Hotel I was apprehensive about my choice of hotel but I need not have worried. My 9th floor corner room was spacious and well-equipped with double bed, TV, fridge, desk and tea-tray, a bath and shower, and even free wi-fi in my room! My room was however, on a "smoking floor" but at least I could open the windows for fresh air and the view was so good, I hadn't the heart to ask for a change!

The 1st floor dining room (above) provided a fantastic full breakfast, including devilled kidneys (which they didn't have on board ship!) and in the evening, the menu was equally impressive without being expensive. Having been refurbished not long ago, the interiors were chic and smart but the Gents' loo was the first I had seen with translucent urinals, backlit by changing LED lighting!

With the bonus of an early check-in, I was back on the road by 10.15am, with the whole day free to explore, so I headed for the nearest "Red Route" stop for the excellent local "Hop-on, hop-off" sightseeing bus. My first stop was at the V&A Waterfront, for the Two Oceans Aquarium.

Two Oceans Aquarium at the V&A Waterfront		Spiny Starfish		African (Jackass) Penguins		Ragged Tooth Shark The Predator Tank

The Two Oceans Aquarium
The most impressive feature of this attraction is its 2 million litre Predator Tank, with its glass walk-through tunnel. However, while this sort of thing is ok for fish, etc, I draw the line at larger creatures, such as African (Jackass) Penguins being couped-up in artificial surroundings. So an hour or so was enough to see what I wanted to see.

As I would be back at the Waterfront later, I took the sightseeing bus again, this time alighting at the Lower Cable Station for another trip on the "Rotair", the cable-car to the top of Table Mountain.

Lion's Head (2,195ft - 669m)		The "Rotair" The Cable Car & Lion's Head		From the Cable Car Table Mountain & Devil's Peak (3,281ft - 1,000m)		Table Mountain Walkway (about 3,500 ft - 1,067m) Devil's Peak in the distance

The "Rotair" Cable Car & Table Mountain Play video >>
This was my second cable-car ride in two days (and my fourth this holiday!) but when the weather is this good, the trip up the mountain is spectacular. The cable-car here is called the "Rotair", because the entire car rotates throughout the journey, giving all 65 passengers a fantastic view all round.

At 3,497 feet high (1,066m), the upper cable station is more than two-and-a-half times the height of Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro; once there, it's like you are literally "on top of the World"!

Top of The World! with QM2 & Cape Town below		Flora & Fauna				Cape Town Queen Mary 2 still in port

		Free to wander further afield this time, I spent a wonderful hour and a half exploring the top of Table Mountain. Away from the main tourist groups, it was blissful just sitting there in the sun, enjoying just the sound of the wind and watching the clouds roll over the top of the Lion's Rump way below. Refreshed by a well-deserved "Coke" and a "Magnum" ice-cream, I took the cable-car back down the mountain and then the "Red Route" sightseeing bus again. (left) The view from the Cable-car; clouds rolling over the "Lion's Rump" way below

Cricket in Camps Bay below the "Twelve Apostles"		The Twelve Apostles Camps Bay & Bakoven		Fishing off the rocks at Bantry Bay		V&A Waterfront and the old "Union Castle Line" Building

The remainder of the "Red Route" follows the Atlantic coast, past many of the popular resort hotels and beaches beneath the impressive range of mountain peaks known as "The Twelve Apostles".

A harbour-cruise & the departure of Queen Mary 2
Returning to the colourful Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, I intended to find a vantage-point to watch the departure of Queen Mary 2 but it was my lucky day because I spotted a boat about to depart on a harbour-cruise; and for just 200 Rand (about £18), it even included a free glass of champagne!

Queen Mary 2 was slow manoeuvering out of the harbour but she was an impressive sight and once she was in open water, it was amazing how quickly she picked-up speed; ours was a fast boat but soon we were having difficulty keeping-up with her!

Captain Martini "My ship" & Table Mountain		Queen Mary 2 Picking-up speed		Farewell QM2!		A high-speed return to the Waterfront

Meanwhile, our boat Captain was giving a running commentary, including all sorts of rubbish information about her; I didn't have the heart to correct him! Maybe it was the salt spray (or was it the champagne?) but there was a tear in my eye as we eventually turned and waved farewell!

Back on dry land about 7.30pm, there were no buses now, so I caught a taxi back to the hotel, where I enjoyed a "slap-up" meal in the hotel restaurant for less than £16!

Lots more photos of Queen Mary 2 and all the places visited on this cruise can be found on my account at Captain Martini >>

Sunday 6th February 2011 Day 3 in Cape Town, South Africa

After a good night's sleep followed by an indulgent hotel breakfast, including devilled kidneys, today I took the "Blue Route" of the "Hop-on, hop-off" sightseeing bus to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

Agapanthus View of Castle Rock		The Dell		Viewing Shelter & the Fynbos Walk		Towards Fern Buttress The south side of Table Mountain

		Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens On land bequeathed to the Nation in 1902 upon the death of Cecil Rhodes, the Gardens were the vision of Cambridge botanist, Prof. Henry Harold Pearson, who initially cleared the land of wild pigs and weeds and began its landscaping in 1913. Now home to an extensive collection of plants native to the Cape, the Gardens also offer popular nature trails and picnic grounds in a spectacular setting. (left) "Cheetah Chasing Buck" - Dylan Lewis' sculpture outside the main Visitor Centre

Rejoining the "Blue Route" bus, my next stop was at Mariners' Wharf in Hout Bay, a colourful fishing harbour beside a tempting but shadeless beach.

Mariners' Wharf and Hout Bay Beach In the distance is Chapman's Peak 1,945ft (593m)				Feeding the seals		Shall I jump? (He did!)

		Mariners' Wharf, Hout Bay Being a Sunday, the restaurants were crowded with tourists and locals. I just fancied a crab sandwich but could I find a sandwich shop? It seems the locals all want their fish deep-fried, even when the air temperature is over 90 degrees! So I resorted to my staple diet of a Magnum and a can of Coke! (left) Just one of the colourful stalls at the Hout Bay Handicraft Market

Picking-up the bus again, I returned towards the City along the scenic Atlantic coast. At Bakoven, the "Red Route & Blue Route" combine, so there are plenty of sightseeing buses serving the resorts and hotels all along the coast. At Sea Point, is the popular Pavilion Swimming Pool, as well as the stylish Winchester Mansions Hotel, with its chic bar/restaurant called "Harveys at the Mansions".

The Atlantic Road Bakoven & Camps Bay, with Lions Head & Table Mountain		Sea Point The Pavilion Swimming Pool	Winchester Mansions Hotel & chic Restaurant "Harveys"			Mouille Point Lighthouse

The lighthouse at Mouille Point is famous for its fog-horn, known by the locals as "Moaning Minnie".

		The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront Developed 1860-1920, the two inner basins commemmorate Queen Victoria and her son, Alfred. Here, ships from all over the world docked close to the heart of the city. But with ever-larger ships docking in the newer outer harbours, this area fell into decline by the 1960's and it wasn't until the 1980's that the regeneration of the "Waterfront" began, resulting in what we see today. (left) The Victoria Clock Tower (1883), centre-piece of the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront

Now home to hotels, restaurants, cafes and shops, the "Waterfront" is today the tourist heart of the City, where buskers and street-entertainers add colour to a host of other attractions, including boat-trips, museums, the Two Oceans Aquarium and a large indoor handicraft market.

Recycled Coke Crates!	Nobel Prize Winners incl Nelson Mandela			Sail Training Ship Picton Castle		Table Mountain & Devil's Peak from the V&A Waterfront

However, since I was here in 2007, what was already a large indoor shopping centre has now been expanded into a vast complex of designer shops; completely devoid of local character, once inside, you could be anywhere in the world and even on a busy day, it didn't seem to me to be that popular.

My last excursion of the day was the special evening sightseeing bus from the Waterfront, the highlight of which was its visit to watch the sunset from Signal Hill on the "Lion's Rump".

There are various hiking trails up to and over the Lion's Rump; at the Signal Station down the road, they still fire the Noonday Gun but none of the sightseeing buses go there during the day. The one "Night Bus Tour" does stop here however; after a brief drive around the city sights, the bus waits for up to 45 minutes for passengers to enjoy the full drama of Sunset over the Atlantic Ocean.

2010 Football Stadium from Signal Hill		Table Mountain from Signal Hill		Sightseers on Signal Hill Awaiting the Sunset		Sunset over the Atlantic

On the return into town, the bus-driver then made a number of unscheduled stops to let people off close to their hotels - a rather helpful gesture this late in the evening, which I rounded-off with a well-earned "G&T"and another splendid meal in the hotel restaurant!

		Monday 7th February 2011 Day 4 in Cape Town, South Africa (my last day!) As this was my last day in Cape Town, I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before packing my bags and checking-out of the hotel around 10.30am. Leaving my luggage with the hotel porter, I booked a taxi for 3pm to take me to the Airport, and set-off on foot to do the last of my sightseeing in the immediate vicinity. (left) Cape Colony's 6th Prime Minister, the statue of Cecil John Rhodes (1853-1902) in the Company's Garden

The Company's Garden
Today a pleasant city park of 15-acres (6 hectares), this is all that remains of the 44-acre garden created in 1648 by the Dutch East India Company to supply its ships with fresh fruit and vegetables.

On the Avenue down one side is the South African Parliament Building (built in 1864) and next to it, the Tuynhuys, originally the Governor's residence and called "Government House", while at the top of the garden are the South African Museum, the Planetarium & the Delville Wood Memorial (see below).

The South African Parliament Building (1864)		The Tuynhuys The Offices of the State President		The South African Museum & the Delville Wood Memorial with Table Mountain in the background

The Delville Wood Memorial
This rather touching memorial relates to the First World War Battle of Delville Wood in 1916, in which 3,153 troops of the South African Brigade took and held enemy positions at a cost of 2,536 of their own lives. The sculpture is a copy of the one on the actual Battle Memorial at Longueval in Northern France. It is called "Dioscuri" by Alfred Turner and symbollically depicts the mythical brothers, Castor and Pollux, controlling the "War Horse" and in spite of their differences, united in the defense of Rome.

Beyond the Company's Garden, is the famous Mount Nelson Hotel, itself set in beautiful grounds beneath the towering backdrop of Table Mountain. In contrast, the infamous Long Street, once notorious for its night-life, is now popular agan with tourists and locals, for its delis, cafes, bars and nightclubs, all amongst an architectural mix of Dutch Colonial, Victorian and Art Deco styles.

Entrance to the Mount Nelson Hotel		The colourful architecture of Long Street		Green Market Square & the Old Town House (The first Town Hall - 1761)		Shaded and pedestrianised St George's Mall

Nearby Greenmarket Square used to be a vegetable market but is now a more trendy "flea market" but it is also the site of the Old Town House, a fine survivor from 1761 which once housed the Burgher Council and which later became the city's first Town Hall. It's now an art gallery.

Another colourful street market is in pleasantly tree-shaded and pedestrianised St George's Mall.

		The Castle of Good Hope Dating from 1666 and built to the classic 16th century 5-point star plan, the Castle's bastions originally faced the sea until reclamation extended the city around it. A small military presence remains but it is now a military museum and venue for exhibitions, including the William Fehr Collection of 18th century furniture, glass & porcelain. It's also a nice quiet place to stop for coffee! (left) Grand Parade Square & the City Hall (1906), opposite the entrance to the Castle of Good Hope

The Bell Tower, Entrance & Leerdam Bastion from the Moat; Table Mountain & Lion's Head behind			Courtyard & Kat Balcony where proclamations were made			The Dolphin Pool Reconstructed in 1982

By this point, hot and tired, I had done just about all the sightseeing I could manage, so I was glad to head back to my hotel for a snack in the bar, before changing in readiness for my journey home.

Monday 7th February 2011 Departure from Cape Town

I had been warned that the trip to the Airport could take up to an hour in traffic, so I had allowed myself plenty of time. However, my taxi turned-up half-an-hour early and then had me there in barely 20 minutes, so I was over 5 hours early and had to wait for the check-in desks to open! Mind you, there are worse places to have to wait but worse was to come at check-in.

I still had about £50-worth of South African Rand in my wallet and was feeling quite pleased with myself but on check-in, imagine my dismay at discovering that both my bags were over-weight at 26kg! When I left home 4 weeks ago, I thought they were about 23kg, so goodness knows where the extra 6kg came from! Thankfully, being polite and cheerful never costs anything and so it was that the good-natured desk-clerk charged me on just one bag instead of two; it still cost me £40 mind you! So I was now down to just 7 Rand in my pocket and a 12 hour overnight flight home. Oh well....

Lots more photos of Queen Mary 2 and all the places visited on this cruise can be found on my account at Captain Martini >>

Cruise Mileage
on Queen Mary 2: 10,502 nautical miles
Total Mileage to date: 159,443 n miles