Having had our initial booking cancelled by Celebrity through changes in the ship's deployment plans, we decided to stick with the ship but move our attention to the Mediterranean again. For me, the highlight was going to be returning to glorious Istanbul for the first time in 23 years!

And on this cruise, our Group of 6 would be joined by Maureen, the mother of my ex-work colleague and friend Karen. Maureen would be making only her second cruise but her first holiday abroad on her own, so while she would be very much her own boss, I would be keeping an eye on her!

The photos of Celebrity Equinox & all the ports visited on this cruise can be found on my account at Captain Martini >>

Click the link to follow our adventures as posted on-line, or read on....

		Thursday 20th October 2011 Heathrow to Civitavecchia, Italy With a departure from home at 4.15am, a civilised breakfast in the BA Club Lounge was our reward, followed by an unstressful two-and-a-half hour flight to Rome's Fiumicino Airport. (left & right) Views from the plane while crossing the Alps

The transfer to Civitavecchia went smoothly, although access to the port is via a rather long-winded route avoiding the old town itself. But with priority boarding being one of our "perks", we were still aboard in time for a spot of lunch while we waited for the Italians to deliver the luggage - eventually! (right) Our last cruise ship, Grandeur of the Seas in Civitavecchia with Fred Olsen's Bramaer

				Accommodation on board Celebrity Equinox Previously on Eclipse, we had enjoyed a suite but this time, Andrew, Stella, Gerry & I opted for two C3-grade Concierge-class balcony cabins. As with most modern cabins, it was comfortably appointed, although drawer-space for two people is not generous and wardrobe access is a problem when the bed is set as 2 singles.

The bathroom and shower are reasonably spacious however, with adequate storage for 2; and at least we had our complimentary bottle of bubbly! Lesley & Peter did have a suite again; this time an S1-grade Sky Suite on the portside corner aft, with a wonderfully nautical window on one side! (right) S1-grade Sky Suite no.1403 - complete with nautical touches!

The late delivery of luggage made the first afternoon a bit frantic, with the obligatory Boat Drill in the middle of everything, quickly followed by departure. Thankfully though, late sitting for Dinner at least meant that some sanity had been restored by the time we all assembled for drinks and dinner!

		Silhouette Dining Room Identical to the Moonlight Sonata Dining Room aboard Celebrity Eclipse, we were able to get the same excellent table position, although this time, overcrowding at the next table caused the odd upset. Our stewards however, Cesar Romero Jnr (!) & the stoical Oleksi, were excellent throughout.

It was so nice to have such an extensive menu to choose from again; and if it was the same as last year's first night menu, it was too extensive for anyone to notice! Classics Menu >>, First Night Menu >>

Not only was there a nightly changing menu with a substantial selection on it, but there was also the "Menu Classics" to choose from every night, giving us an outstanding choice. Tonight I had the Crab & Avocado appetizer, followed by Mushroom Cappuccino, Lamb Shank and ice-cream - fabulous!

Friday 21st October A Day at Sea - and passing through the Straits of Messina

There was no rush to get up today, so it was 8.00am before I was joined by Lesley for a swim in the lovely Spa Pool before a leisurely breakfast with Gerry in the cabin. By 9.30-10.00am, the weather was warm and promising as we passed through the Straits of Messina between Italy and Sicily.

The Neighbours!		The Straits of Messina looking aft, with Sicily on the left and mainland Italy on the right		The local Pilot boat departs

Colonel Gaddafi shot in Libya
It was on the News today that Colonel Gaddafi was discovered yesterday by Libyan rebels and shot during his capture. The uprising and war in Libya has been raging since February this year and while this is not quite the outcome desired by the many countries supporting the uprising, it is to be hoped that it will nonetheless bring an end to the bloodshed.

Later, while Lesley & Stella went shopping (!), "us boys" (Andrew, Gerry, Peter and me) took up the Captain's Club exclusive invitation to a Wine-tasting seminar; 4 white wines presented in an educative but lighthearted manner, and with a finesse that Celebrity have perfected well.

Another bonus of the Captain's Club was the "Exclusive Nightly Hosted Event", held in Michael's Club, at which Celebrity's generosity extends to complimentary drinks and canapes from 5pm, so for this cruise it naturally became the new meeting-place for the 5 o'clock Martini Committee!

Michael's Club The new venue for the 5 o'clock Martini Club		Pre-Dinner drinks and what's this - Karaoke Night? Maureen & I gaze on as Lesley & Stella consider the song-list & Andrew cries into his drink!

Newcomer Maureen joined us for our pre-dinner get-together in the Sky Observation Lounge but we should have checked the Programme because it turned out to be hosting Karaoke Night, which proved an excruciatingly funny experience. At one point, Stella & Lesley were seen checking the song-list and it looked like they might actually be considering taking part! Thankfully, they didn't!

After a Formal Dinner, which for me comprised: Frogs Legs, Fish Bisque, Rack of Lamb and Cherries Jubilee, we went to the first of 2 spectacular production shows in the Celebrity Theater. Simply entitled "The Show", this Cirque du Soleil-style audio-visual extravaganza was the most extraordinary stage show I have ever seen, on land or at sea, and I loved it!

				Next morning, I took the Backstage Guided Tour, led by cast members from last night's show. Sadly, Health & Safety Rules meant we couldn't see any of the machinery, unlike on Constellation in 2008, when we rode one of the stage lifts, but it was still interesting and another of the perks of Captain's Club membership.

		By the time we arrived at anchor around 1.00pm, Celebrity's other ship Constellation was already at the pier at Agios Stefanos, where we had docked in 2005, when Gerry & I were last here aboard Galaxy. (left) Celebrity Constellation and (right) Nieuw Amsterdam tendering

Tendering Ashore		Stairways & Alleyways (Gerry's photo above left)				Nieuw Amsterdam lies at anchor off Picturesque "Little Venice"

Together with Maureen, we took the local tender shore and strolled through the town before having a drink at a cafe and then splitting-up. Unlike my last visit here with Gerry in 2005, the main town and cafes were busy with tourists from all the ships in today and this made it less appealing but the quieter backstreets & alleys still have their charm. (right) Group photo by Gerry >>

		Petros the Pelican - mascot of Mykonos Blown ashore in a storm in 1954, a lone pelican made his home in the town, growing fat from all the fishermen feeding him. Named "Petros" by the locals, he soon became the island's mascot. After more than 30 years however, he was hit by a car and killed in 1985. Today, a number of pelicans are maintained as pets - one is believed to be called "Petros".

The Windmills of Mykonos				A Blustery Day!		Nieuw Amsterdam in the early evening

What made matters worse was the blustery wind, which made taking photographs quite difficult; hardly surprising though, given the range of windmills lined-up on the ridge overlooking the town!

After a well-deserved ice-cream, Gerry, Lesley & I made the rather bumpy ride back to the ship to meet up with the others. Equinox remained at anchor until 10.00pm, so that passengers could have dinner ashore but there was no doubt where the best restaurant in town was; we were already on it!

Every ship has its weakness - ours was Room Service Breakfast!
Ordered for 8.00am on the complicated on-line system, ours arrived 20 minutes late and there was no bagel with the smoked salmon, so I telephoned. They sent a toasted muffin and a croissant! Only then did we realise there were no cups but after Hector our cabin steward had fetched those, we finally realised there was no grapefruit juice either but by this time we had given up!

The mess-up by Room Service today was probably due to this being the first day with an early start and many passengers opting for cabin breakfast! And with 3 other ships in port, we were not going to be short of company ashore either, with 5,000 passengers on tour to this resort's major attraction, Ephesus!

(above) Discovery (ex-Island Princess 1972 21,186grt 700 passengers), Nieuw Amsterdam (2010 86,700grt 2,100 passengers) & Celebrity Equinox (2009 122,000grt 2,850 passengers), with Noble Caledonia's tiny Island Sky (ex-R8 1991 4,280grt 116 passengers) (Together with sister-ship Pacific Princess, the old Island Princess was once the setting for the 1970's TV Series "The Love Boat")

Ephesus
Located near the town of Selcuk, today 8km from the sea, this ancient Greek city was a thriving port and one of the largest cities in the Mediterranean at its peak during the Roman Period in the 1st Century AD. It was famed for the great Temple of Artemis, one of the original Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, but the Apostle Paul also brought Christianity here and it is believed to be the final home of Jesus' Mother, The Virgin Mary as well as where John's Gospel was probably written.

		Mark has trouble with an i-pod! (Gerry's photo) Rather than taking a guided tour, we chose (on my suggestion) a self-guided tour with the aid of a mini "i-pod" but the map they gave us was of little value and the instructions were poor. It was ok if you had the time to leave it running but trying to avoid the crowds resulted in considerable confusion and moments of technological frustration on my part! On reflection, a good map and an old-fashioned guide-book would have been better - and cheaper!

		Ephesus Plan >>
The Odeion Council Chamber				The Odeion One of 3 Entrances	The Celsus Library from Curetes Street the congested main street			The Fountain of Trajan

Only one column remains from the famed Temple of Artemis, destroyed by the Goths in 268AD, but excavations in the 19th Century revealed other treasures, even if some of them had to be reconstructed from fallen stones! The Celsus Library dates from 117AD and housed 24,000 scrolls, while the Theatre could accommodate 25,000 spectators and was the largest in the Mediterranean.

Believed to be the largest in the World The Great Theatre from the Old Harbour Road		The Theatre seating 25,000 spectators	The Celsus Library from Marble Street			Augustus Gate The Agora beyond

We finished our tour at Harbour Road; hard to believe that there was once a thriving port here but silting-up of the river and its estuary over nearly 2,000 years have today left the city 8km inland.

The Goddess Nike (Gerry's photo)		The Fanfare (mimed!)		The "Roman" Tableau		Glad Rags! (Gerry's photo)

More difficult to believe, was the musical "Roman" Tableau (see above) put on by local performers, in which Julius Caesar entertains Queen Cleopatra with some rather feeble gladiatorial combat!

More photos of Ephesus & all the ports visited on this cruise can be found here on my account at Captain Martini >>


Returning to Kusadasi via the compulsory tour-stop at a Turkish Rug Factory, where everyone sat and listened politely while they gave us Turkish Apple Tea, cheese rolls and impressed us with the quality of their carpets (no, really!), it was then back to the ship for lunch.

Kusadasi is today a popular resort, with a pleasant promenade and plenty of cafes and restaurants but Gerry & I took a stroll the other way around the harbour and across the causeway to investigate the pretty Pigeon Island and its Byzantine Fortress dating from the 14th/15th Century, sometimes referred to as "Pirate Island" because of the town's history of being a haven for pirates.

(Above) Pigeon Island & its Byzantine Fortress, sometimes referred to as "Pirate Island", while across the harbour are the cruise ships: Discovery (ex-Island Princess 1972 21,186grt 700 passengers), Nieuw Amsterdam (2010 86,700grt 2,100 passengers) & Celebrity Equinox (2009 122,000grt 2,850 passengers), with Noble Caledonia's tiny Island Sky (ex-R8 1991 4,280grt 116 passengers)

		Michael's Club was full this evening and our "complimentary drinks" were threatened but for Ti-Ann, the ship's Captain's Club Hostess, who told us to sit outside and then ensured we were plied with plenty of drinks & canapes! This was our introduction to Ti-Ann and she was very good at her job! (left) Ensemble, the plush cocktail lounge/bar outside Michael's Club

Dinner was excellent, although the onset of a cold was threatening to spoil it. I had Oysters Rockefeller, Baked Potato Soup and New York Sirloin Steak; and as I wasn't able to get any crepes on Mykonos, I rounded things off with Crepes Suzette! Tonight's Dinner Menu >>

While I retired to bed with a "Lem-sip" thanks Lesley, Andrew won his first $150 in the Casino!

		Not feeling brilliant but still managed my swim, then enjoyed a relaxing morning and the lunchtime Captain's Club Party in the Sky Observation Lounge, hosted by the lovely Ti-Ann. They certainly know how to throw a party; food, entertainment, speeches and plenty to drink, their hospitality was exemplary!

In the afternoon, as the weather got chillier and very windy, we began our progress through the Dardanelles Strait, with the Gallipoli Peninsular and Europe to port and Asia on the starboard side.

The entrance to the Dardanelles Cape Helles & the Allied War Memorial		The Turkish War Memorial		Sheltering from the wind as we appraoch Canakkale, the narrowest point

The Dardanelles (or Gallipoli) Campaign of 1915-16
The brainchild of First Lord of the Admiralty Winston Churchill, this was a joint British/French campaign to open-up a supply route to Russia during the First World War. Many ships were lost in the initial naval campaign due to mines in the Dardanelles and the subsequent landings on the peninsula were the first to involve ANZAC troops from Australia and New Zealand. Fought at a time when the Turkish Ottaman Empire was crumbling, the campaign was a costly failure to the Allies and while the Turks sustained even heavier casualties, it is seen as a defining moment in the history of modern Turkey, laying the grounds for the Turkish War of Independence and the foundation of the Turkish Republic 8 years later under Atatürk, himself a commander at Gallipoli.

At less than 1500 yds wide, the narrowest point is at Canakkale, where Andrew & I stopped last aboard Vistafjord in 1988 with John and my Mum & Dad, on that occasion visiting the site of Ancient Troy, situated 15miles (25km) south-west of here on the Asian side. Read about our 1988 visit to Troy >> (right) The Fortress of Kilitbahir at Canakkale, the narrowest point in the Dardanelles Strait

On this occasion though, there was no stopping, as we pressed onwards into a chilly and blustery wind towards the Sea of Marmara and Istanbul. But first, we had booked a special evening dinner.

Tuscan Grille
This is just one of 4 speciality restaurants aboard, for which there is usually an extra cover charge of $30 per person, unless you are in a Suite, in which case, you get two complimentary bookings.

		Here the wonderful aft sea view is matched by an Italian-style menu, served with exceptional flair. It was here I discovered Casserola e Granchio, a lump crab casserole starter that was just divine! Tuscan Grille Menu >> and (right) Casserola e Granchio >>

Having enjoyed so much the identical restaurant aboard sister-ship Celebrity Eclipse last year, we all had high expectations but were not disappointed and had a great time. Still keeping my cold at bay, I also had Rustic Seafood Stew and Sea-Bass with Garlic Mash, so it was no surprise I didn't really want a dessert! So I chose the Toffee Panna Cotta, which proved to be the most elaborate of all, arriving with a caramelised strawberry and vanilla ice-cream in a tuile basket! I was stuffed!

We had earlier asked Maureen to join us for Tuscan Grille, especially as we hadn't seen her for dinner since Friday evening but I learned today that she had suffered a minor stumble while on her tour in Kusadasi yesterday, as a result of which, she now had a badly swollen ankle needing rest. At this point, she was still hopeful of enjoying her tours in Istanbul but things would not go too well.

There's nothing quite wakes you up like a spectacular view from your cabin balcony at 6 o'clock!

Maureen having booked a seperate tour, the rest of us were all ashore by 8.15am for our full-day tour and were fortunate to be among the first visitors to arrive at our first sightseeing destination.

		The Sultan Ahmet (or "Blue") Mosque Built by Sultan Ahmet I in 1616, it is noted for the blue colour of the tiles decorating its interior, as well as for its 6 minarets. This was unusual at the time and seen as presumptuous, as no mosque outside Mecca had more than 4. It is said that the Sultan paid for a 7th minaret to be built at the Sacred Mosque in Mecca to quel his critics but this is doubtful however, although 3 new minarets were added to the Sacred Mosque when it was extended in the 1620's.

The Sultan Ahmet or "Blue" Mosque You can just see the top of the 5th & 6th minarets in this photo		Interior of the "Blue" Mosque The central dome rises 141ft (43m) above the ground and is 77ft (23.5m) in diameter

We left by way of the Hippodrome, the city's equivalent to Rome's Circus Maximus, laid out by Emperor Constantine in the 3rd century and accommodating 100,000 spectators. It holds a number of monuments, including the Egyptian Obelisk, which once stood outside the Temple of Karnak, and the German Fountain, donated after a visit in 1898 by the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II.

The Hippodrome of Constantinople - Trivia
The Egyptian Obelisk dates from the reign of Tutmose III around 1490BC when it once stood at the Temple of Karnak in Luxor. Emperor Constantine had it cut into 3 pieces for transport but only the top section survives and is mounted on a marble pedestal.

On the north side of the arena, the official boxes were once adorned by 4 great bronze horses but these were looted in 1204 during the 4th Crusade, later to appear above the facade of St Mark's Basilica in Venice - see photo right >> They also stripped the gilded plaques covering another obelisk in the square, built by Constantine Porphyrogenitus in the 10th century; all that remains of this "Walled Obelisk", is its stone core (see the background of the photo below).

The German Fountain (1901)		The Hippodrome & "Blue" Mosque Clearly showing all 6 minarets		The Egyptian Obelisk & "Walled Obelisk"		The Basilica Cistern & one of the Medusa's head columns

The Basilica Cistern was an underground water-storage system, built by Emperor Justinian in the 6th century. Its capacity was 80 million litres (18 million gallons), although thankfully, the water level these days is only a few inches! The roof is supported by 336 columns, re-using materials from demolished buildings; two of these columns feature Medusa-heads at their base, deliberately laid upside-down or sideways, so as to signify that Medusa was no longer worshipped or venerated.

The Spice Market		Colourful lamps & incense-burners		Aromatic spices!		The cavernous Grand Bazaar

The atmosphere in the Spice Market was colourful and fascinating, with a heady aroma from all the spices on sale. Although it was crowded, unlike our experience in Egypt, at no time did I feel intimidated. And you can't leave here without buying some real Turkish Delight!

After a pleasant lunch of traditional Turkish fare at a restaurant nearby, we were then left at the Grand Bazaar, a cavernous labyrinth of passages and alleys, where Stella paid far too much for a pair of lamps and was then convinced she was given too much change! We all followed weerily, apart from Andrew, who retreated to the coach for a nap!

		A (cold!) Afternoon Cruise on the Bosporus This was all included in our organised tour and it would have been more successful had the weather been better. As it was, there was a biting wind and it was grey and overcast but the cruise went some 6 miles (9.6km) down the Strait toward the Black Sea, beyond the 2nd Bosporus Bridge.

One of the many ferries criss-crossing the Bosporus		The First Bosporus Bridge(1974) Main Span 3,523ft (1,074m) Clearance 210ft (64m)		Ex-Turkish State Yacht Savarona

Passing under the 1st Bosporus Bridge		The restored 19th century Hidiva Palace (now the Egyptian Embassy)	The 2nd Bosporus Bridge Opened in 1988			The Castle of Rumelihisari Built 1452 in just 4 months & 16 days!

By the time the boat turned-around at the Second Bosporus Bridge, the others had long since sought the comfort of the enclosed lower deck but a few like me, remained huddled on deck, sheltering from the biting wind. Shrewdly, stewards came around the deck selling hot Apple Tea for 1 Euro! (right) Lesley & Andrew (before retreating indoors), "Who's crazy idea was this?" (Photo by Gerry)

Sultan's Hunting Lodge on the Asian Side (1857)		Celebrity Equinox & Celebrity Constellation		Amadea (ex-Asuka 1991 - 28,856grt)		The Suleymaniye Mosque (1550-57)

		As the ship had an overnight in port, we were optimistic for the evening Folkloric Show but alas, it proved disappointing, relying for the most part on audience participation for its applause. Even the Belly-dancer lacked the necessary voluptuous skills!

The best recipe for a bad cold - French Onion Soup!
Tonight's dinner consisted of Snails in garlic butter and Baked French Onion Soup from the Classics Menu >> followed by Sauteed Muscovy Duck Breast from Tonight's Dinner Menu >>. The Banana Sourbet that followed wasn't up to much but after the "Great Onion Soup Incident" on board Queen Mary 2 last January, I must say that Equinox's French Onion Soup was 10 times better! Just as well really, because I now had a sore throat and a bad cold, so it was off to bed with the last of Lesley's stock of "Lem-Sip"!

		It was still dark when we were awoken at 6.20am by the haunting sound of the Call to Prayer, as it spread across the city. Dutifully, following the clear instructions of our Guide yesterday, we were all ashore and on the bus by 8.00am, ready for the rest of our tour. (left) The Suleymaniye Mosque

Our Guide's instructions had not been given lightly; with the foreknowledge that comes from experience, she had us at the front of the queue for the Topkapi Palace and anyone who tried to sneak past us met with a dictatorial dressing-down from her diminutive but formidable presence!

The weather was cold and grey but a decent day for looking around what is today a museum; and this was something we missed 23 years ago, when Andrew & I were here with my parents in 1988.

The queue (behind us!)		The Topkapi Palace & Inscriptionsa at the Salutation Gate (c1460)				The Imperial Council Building & The Imperial Divan (Council Chamber)

While perhaps not as architecturally imposing as you might expect, it is a fascinating labyrinth of buildings and chambers, the interiors of which are often quite stunning. However, given the limited time available, our excellent Guide advised us which were the best things to see and how to avoid the queues, then allowed us time to make our choices and take things at our own pace. Even so, the queue for the Sultan's Audience Chamber (photos not permitted!) was unavoidable - but worth it!

The Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Sarayi)
Begun in 1459 by Sultan Mehmet II, the conqueror of Byzantine Constantinople, the Palace sits on the highest point of The Golden Horn, overlooking the Bosporus and Sea of Marmara. From here the Ottoman Sultans ruled their Empire and at its height, the Palace was home to 4,000 people but its importance dwindled after the Imperial Court was moved to a new palace built in the 19th century. It opened as a museum in 1924 and in 1985, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Today the museum houses the Imperial Treasury and a collection of religious relics known as the Treasury of the Sacred Trusts, including the Blessed Mantle of Muhammad, the Holy Banner, Moses' Staff and even a Letter from the Prophet Muhammad.

		The Third Courtyard contains the Palace's most important features: the Imperial Treasury and the Treasury of the Sacred Trusts, a collection of religious relics, including such amazing things as a cast of the footprint of the Prophet Muhammad. There's even a letter signed by Him. (left) Pavilion of the Sacred Trusts & (right) Library of Ahmed III

The few photos above cannot do justice to this place because photography is necessarily prohibited in so many areas but even for someone who is easily bored in musuems, this one is well worth the visit and I would happily have spent longer here exploring.

We lose Gerry - or did he lose us?
Left free to wander, it was no surprise that we lost someone. Gerry inadvertantly went through what turned out to be an "Exit" and they wouldn't let him back in! Fortunately, we each had mobile phones with us and he had paid attention to where we were going next; so he was able to tell us where he was and wait for us, thus sparing us the wrath of our formidable Guide!

		Hagia Sophia The Church of The Holy Wisdom was built by Emperor Justinian in 537 AD, and as the cathedral of Byzantine Constantinople, it was the largest in the world until the fall of Constantinople in 1453, when it became a mosque until 1934. Today it is a museum containing both Muslim and Christian elements.

Haghia Sophia from the north-west gallery toward the Apse & Mihrab		The north-east gallery & the enclosure for the Royal Family	The Dome 102ft dia & 183ft high Christian Angels & Muslim inscriptions			Mosaic above the Imperial Gate, depicting Jesus Christ and Emperor Leo VI

Again the skills and knowledge of our formidable Guide proved invaluable because it was she who advised us how to get up to the Gallery for the best views of the interior.

Haghia Sophia is today not only an engineering marvel and a magnificent piece of architecture but also a modern-day testament to shared beliefs and the aspirations of both Christian and Muslim, living side-by-side. When we were here 23 years ago, the building was dark and stained and in need of restoration but today it seemed to be in better shape and we enjoyed it so much more.

After the usual "refreshment stop" at a retail outlet where the Turkish Apple Tea was free but the carpets and art available, though exquisite in quality, were frighteningly priced, our tour returned to the ship in time for lunch and our departure at 2.00pm, with one last view of the Golden Horn.