I snatch a brief visit to RMS Queen Mary in Long Beach
Sagafjord passes through one of the locks during our day-long transit of the Panama Canal

Itinerary		= ports at anchor
Wednesday 31st August	-	Fly to Los Angeles, USA & stay overnight
Thursday	-	Los Angeles, USA (pm) embark Sagafjord
Friday	-	at sea
Saturday	-	Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
Sunday	-	at sea
Monday	-	Acapulco, Mexico
Tuesday	-	at sea
Wednesday	-	at sea
Thursday	-	Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica
Friday	-	at sea
Saturday	-	Transit Panama Canal
Sunday	-	at sea
Monday	-	Oranjestad, Aruba
Tuesday	-	at sea
Wednesday	-	at sea
Thursday 15th September	-	Ft Lauderdale, USA disembark & Fly to UK

With the promise of rather hotter weather than on our previous cruise, Andrew was back with John and me for this trip, while Dad remained at home this time.

Wednesday 31st August Flight to Los Angeles, USA

Our first experience of American Airlines last year had not been particularly pleasant but this time, the flight was more than 11 hours, the longest we had done to date!

		But once in L.A. (note the lingo!), we were transferred to the Beverly Hilton Hotel for our overnight stay in the suburb of Beverly Hills. Locked out of my own suitcase! Having checked-in at the hotel, I was horrified to realise that I had left all my keys in the car at Heathrow Airport! Unfortunately, none of the Head Porter's spare keys seemed to fit either, so I was obliged to force the locks using John's trusty "Swiss Army Knife" (no traveller should be without one!) (left) The Beverly Hilton Hotel on Wilshire Boulevard, in the Hollywood foothills!

We ventured out onto Santa Monica Boulevard, the western end of the famous Trans-American Highway "Route 66" but soon discovered that people in L.A. evidently don't walk anywhere; the "sidewalk" was barely 2ft wide and crossing the road on foot was hazardous, to say the least!

Just down the road however, we found Century City, a complex of shops and offices built on what was once the 20th Century Fox "Back Lot". Here we found a restaurant in the form of a huge Yellow Submarine! Opened just this year, it was the brainchild of director Steven Speilberg, although with a name like "Dive!", it's not surprising that in 1999, it went under!

Thursday 1st September Los Angeles, USA

John & Andrew took advantage of today's special transfer arrangements to the ship, which included a complimentary Hollywood sightseeing tour. These are some of John's pictures.

Grauman's Chinese Theatre (1927) Hollywood Boulevard & the Walk of Fame				Rodeo Drive & the Beverly Wilshire Hotel		Griffith Observatory & Planetarium (1935)

Instead however, after assuring John & Andrew that I would meet them later at Sagafjord, I left them with my suitcase while I went off on my own by taxi to Long Beach, to see RMS Queen Mary.

		RMS Queen Mary, Long Beach (1936-67) 81,237grt Length 1,019ft Draft 39ft Speed 28.5 knots The 40-minute taxi-ride cost me $60, so I may have been "robbed" but I didn't care because I was determined to see what was for 33 years probably the most famous ocean liner of all, having now been in "retirement" as a hotel, conference centre and visitor attraction for almost as long as she was at sea. In her day, she was an "Art-Deco" icon and I was keen to find out how much of her still survived.

Since she was bought by the City of Long Beach amidst great hype in 1967, her fortunes have been mixed. With poor vision & bad taste, successive owners have found it hard to make her profitable.

Weather-Deck from the Bridge	Wheelhouse, Flying Bridge & Forward Funnel (at last being re-painted in the right colour!)					Open & Sheltered Promenades & you can see all the rivets!

When she closed in 1992, her future seemed in doubt but a new consortium took over in 1993 and on my visit, there were signs that money was at last being spent on restoring her deteriorating superstructure, including her funnels, at last being painted the correct shade of "Cunard-red"!

Internally, her grand public rooms may have lost some of their sparkle with the addition of cheap modern furniture and new "tacky" features, but there is much of her "Art-Deco" style that survives.

Shopping Arcade		Cabin-class Lounge "Unicorns in Battle"		Cabin-class Restaurant Wall-map by Macdonald Gill		Captain's Day-Room

In what used to be the 3rd-class Smoking Room (forward), a number of exhibits have been set-up behind glass, showing a variety of cabins and suites; and while it was sad to see the famous Verandah Grill as a fast food outlet (albeit closed!), I was still able to tour the Engine Room and see the ship's one remaining propeller, preserved in an enclosed kind of "underwater viewing gallery"

Hotel Queen Mary Conference Centre & Visitor Attraction		The Verandah Grill a fast food outlet!		The Stern, Propeller Encasement & internal viewing gallery

Once the pride of the Cunard-White Star Line, RMS Queen Mary was built for the North Atlantic and between 1936 and 1967 she made 1,001 crossings, regularly cracking-along at 28.5 knots. She developed a reputation for style and elegance at a time when it truly was "The Only Way to Cross".

Critics complain that alterations have spoiled many features and that she was "running to rack and ruin" in an indignified twilight. But I was just glad to be able to still see something of her. She is all that remains of a great and glorious era of sea-travel and she was once the greatest of them all!

		Thursday 1st September Embarking Sagafjord, Los Angeles, USA That afternoon, a short taxi-ride from Long Beach & RMS Queen Mary, I met up with John & Andrew again, notwithstanding expectations to the contrary on their part, as planned and on time at the Cruise Terminal in San Pedro.

		So by mid-afternoon, we were safely aboard and the ship sailed at 6pm. But for the first time under new regulations, Lifeboat Drill was held shortly before leaving port instead of on the first morning at sea, as had always previously been the practice. (left) A new style Luggage Lable and (right) Postcard of the San Pedro Cruise Terminal

Friday 2nd September A Day at Sea

After a busy couple of days, we were glad of the opportunity to spend most of the day snoozing on deck, as the weather became warmer and sunnier as we cruised southward.

C-grade Cabin 223		Passenger List		Formal Group Photo Not one of our best!	Welcome Dinner Open Menu >>			The refurbished Saga Dining Room**

On booking this cruise, Cunard gave us an upgrade, so John now had an outside cabin and Andrew & I now had a spacious C-grade on Upper Deck, our largest cabin to date! The high-spot of the day was the Captain's Cocktail Party and Welcome Dinner in the recently refurbished Saga Dining Room. I had Caviar, Mock Turtle Soup and Lobster!

(**Please Note: the Dining Room photo above shows Cunard's remodelling. However, the photo does not date from 1994 but from 1997 when Saga re-upholstered the chairs in dark blue. Cunard's better choice was actually a pale blue-grey but I took no photo!)

Saturday 3rd September Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

We dropped anchor at the tip of that long peninsula of Mexico known as Baja California, where a sleepy little fishing village is in the early stages of being developed as a holiday resort. Already popular for scuba-diving and sea-fishing, these waters are also known as "Marlin Alley".

Harbour Market & small town jetty		Cabo San Lucas in course of development		Andrew at Giorgio's Restaurant with Sagafjord anchored in the distance

There wasn't a lot to see on our local tour and the weather was hot and humid but in the pleasant breeze under the canopy at Giorgio's Restaurant, where we had refreshments, we were able to appreciate the view of the bay and its impressive white sand beaches. I wrote in my travel-diary, "In 30 years, will this lovely bay be just another resort full of high-rise hotels & apartment blocks?"

The rocks at Los Arcos Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez	"Neptune's Finger"			Me and Andrew, in one of his half-blink poses!		Sunset Departure

We had been led naively to expect that our Glass-bottom Boat to Los Arcos, "where the Pacific Ocean meets the mouth of the Sea of Cortez", would be a sophisticated, narrated experience but what we got was a bumpy ride in a tiny wooden boat (with a box in the middle that had a murky glass bottom!), a lot of jagged rocks covered with guana and some very miserable-looking pelicans! The sea was really choppy and our Mexican boatman took us precariously close to hitting the rocks!

		Monday 5th September Acapulco, Mexico But after a relaxing day at sea, it was more jagged rocks! This time, it was the famous Cliff Divers of La Quebrada where the highest regularly-performed dive of 125ft (38m) is performed as part of a show given by a troupe of professional divers in front of tourists at the El Mirador Hotel. The divers then run all the way back up the steps to meet their audience in the lobby of the hotel - to collect tips of course!

Cliff Divers of La Quebrada		Acapulco from the Cruise Terminal		Sagafjord and Acapulco Beach (not quite as pleasant-smelling as it looks!)

The beautiful bay of Acapulco did not, unfortunately, live up to its romantic post-card promises; the weather was hot and oppressively humid and the views were all very hazy and disappointing. However, worse was to come when we decided to walk along La Costera, the main avenue around the bay. When the tide is out, the stench from a lagoon in the middle of the beach marks the point where a once-proud river empties half-heartedly into this bay!

Las Brisas & a hazy Acapulco Bay		The Bay of Puerto Marques		The Acapulco Princess Hotel & its Pacific Coast Beach

Our tour however, proudly took us to Las Brisas, where the homes of millionaires and film-stars are situated up on the breezy slopes on the other side of the bay; then on to tiny Puerto Marques before stopping at the Acapulco Princess Hotel on the Pacific Coast. It is famous for having been designed along the lines of an Aztec Temple - but it just looked like a massive hotel to me!

Back aboard Sagafjord before we departed Acapulco, we were given a matinee performance of "Traditional Dances & Music of Mexico" by a local entertainment troupe, including the compulsory Mariache Band. They weren't very good; the only good bit being the Mexican Hat Dance at the end!

Tuesday 6th - Wednesday 7th September 2 Days at Sea

The weather continued hot and humid, so apart from some interesting morning talks, including one on Concorde by British Airways' Captain Richard Roas, we were not inclined to do much all day!

		Evening entertainment ranged from classical recitals (which passengers kept interrupting by coming and going all the time!) to comedy acts and another "Singers & Feathers" Review of doubtful artistic merit. However, the highspot each evening was Dinner; Tuesday being Formal Night and the Gastronautical Dinner >> and Wednesday the French Dinner >>, quite my favourite!

Our Waiter on this cruise was Peter from Yorkshire, England; very efficient, if a bit over-effusive!

Thursday 8th September Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica

Situated just a few miles south of the larger port of Puntarenas, Puerto Caldera was little more than a quayside and a few warehouses but this didn't stop us receiving a warm "folkloric" welcome!

A Folkloric Welcome on the quayside		Dense Forest The Los Angeles Cloud Forest				The Cloud Forest drifting clouds at 1,300m (4,265ft)

But while most passengers took sightseeing or shopping excursions to the capital San Jose, we were in a small group visiting the Los Angeles Cloud Forest, a private 2,000 acre virgin forest habitat, high in the mountains at 4,265ft (1,300m), about 11 miles (18km) north of the city of San Ramon.

John's Pan-American Nightmare Journey
Our road-trip to the Los Angeles Cloud Forest took nearly 2 hrs along part of Highway 1, the famous Pan-American Highway following the spine of Central America from Mexico City in the north to Panama City in the south and on into South America. Nevertheless, road conditions were diabolical and our small mini-buses were no match for them; nor were we! By the time we arrived, poor John was complaining that he had "broken his thumb", gripping so tightly onto the back of the seat in front of him!

But the journey was worth it because, high above the forest it was cool, quiet and simply wonderful to watch, as the clouds drifted silently across the green landscape.

(above) John's Photos

With an excellent guide, we followed a jungle trail of a mile and a quarter (2km) through the forest, stopping along the way for our guide to explain the variety of exotic plants. The tour description had promised us monkeys, squirrels and parakeets but although we heard plenty of wildlife, we didn't see it! Neverthless, just to experience the forest in this way was quite simply, beautiful.

We returned to the ship in the rain for another hour of "Folkloric Music & Dancing" from the same troupe that had greeted us on the quayside. They must have been hanging around all day to do this!

Friday 9th September A Day at Sea

It was hot and humid again and as we progressed further south-east, and having already seen electrical storms ahead last night, today we passed through tropical thunderstorms in which the rain was so heavy that it poured off the ship's decks in waterfalls!

Fjord Club Party & Captain Tore Lura		Fjord Club Invitation		My 100-day Pin	Captain Tore Lura & Yours Truly			The Chef's Dinner Open Menu >>

This evening's formal event was the Fjord Club Cocktail Party for repeat passengers. But it was extra-special for us this time, as John & I were presented with our Gold Cunard 100-day Pins, marking 100 nights aboard Cunard ships (though in truth, we were well past that number by now!)

This was followed by the Chef's Dinner, another celebration menu presented by our aptly-named Chef de Cuisine August Göbl! Chef's Dinner Menu >>

Saturday 10th September The Panama Canal

From a position 6 degrees North, the closest we had ever been to the Equator, we turned north into the Bay of Panama and by 7.00am, we were among dozens of ships at anchor off Balboa, the entrance to the Panama Canal. In the distance, we could see the skyscraper skyline of Panama City.

Panama City Skyline		The Canal Entrance The Bridge of the Americas	Bridge of the Americas & the Pan-American Highway			Approaching the Miraflores Locks

The Pacific entrance to the canal is marked by the 1,128ft (344m) steel arch of the Bridge of the Americas, opened in 1962 and carrying the Pan-American highway between North & South America.

Passing beneath the bridge, we come to the first set of locks, the Miraflores Locks, where the ship is raised 54ft (16.5m) in 2 stages, then about a mile further on at the Pedro Miguel Locks, the ship is raised another 31ft (9.5m) in one go. (right) Cross-section of the Panama Canal

Each lock chamber is 1,050ft long by 110ft wide (320m by 33.5m), so although it looks a tight squeeze, for Sagafjord there's quite a bit of room to spare. However, Cunard's Queen Elizabeth 2 is 963ft long and when she passes through here, she has barely 2ft 6in to spare on each side. Merchant ships built to the maximum size to pass through the canal are called "Panamax Ships".

Miraflores Locks another ship ahead		Moving between lock chambers		Lock Control Center at Miraflores Locks		An Electric "Mule" helps guide the ship

While most ships proceed under their own power, they are hooked-up to and controlled and guided by powerful electric locomotives, affectionately called "Mules" because they travel along with the ship, climbing up (or down) on a "Rack-and-Pinion" track system laid alongside each lock.

The Panama Canal - according to Andrew....
It was at about this point, barely out of the Miraflores Locks, that the sun came out and Andrew headed for the sun-loungers. As we entered the Pedro Miguel Locks and the vast gates closed behind the stern of the ship (and the sun-deck!) I railed with him that the Panama Canal was one of the "Seven Wonders of the Modern World" and that he wasn't watching any of the fascinating activity going on around us; to which he uttered those immortal words, "Well, once you've seen one lock, you've seen them all!"

Having been raised 85 feet (26m) above sea-level, ships then pass through the mountainous region known as the Continental Divide in a section called the Culebra Cut, which had to be dug and blasted through the mountains in a major feat of engineering taking 7 years to complete. It was renamed the Gaillard Cut in 1915 in honor of the US Army engineer in charge of the works.

Gaillard Cut (The Culbera Cut & Continental Divide)		Gatun (artificial) Lake 164 sq miles (425 sq km) 85ft (26m) above sea-level		Gatun Locks (the Caribbean Side) With 3 lock chambers & gates varying 47-82ft in height

After crossing Gatun Lake, we then reached Gatun Locks, where the ship was lowered 85ft back to sea-level in a set of 3 locks, finally exiting the canal at Cristobal, now part of the port of Colon.

The American Solution to the Panama Canal Problem	see map >>

Gatun Lake is a 164 sq mile (425sq km) artificial reservoir, formed by the damming of the Chagres River. With its own strategic interests in mind, it was this fundamental American idea that in 1904 turned the concept of a canal from a disaster into reality.

Prior to this, the French had laboured 20 years to build a sea-level waterway through the jungle under the plans of Ferdinand de Lesseps, the designer of the hugely successful Suez Canal. They were ultimately defeated by financial problems and the terrible loss of life, largely from yellow fever and malaria, tropical diseases unknown at the time to be communicated by the mosquito.

At the time it was completed, Gatun Dam was the largest in the world, creating the largest man-made lake in the world. The dam would generate enough power to operate the canal, indeed for the entire Canal Zone, while the lake would provide water to operate the locks. In turn, the high tropical rainfall would maintain the level of the lake. It was an almost ecological solution.

Some Panama Canal Facts & Statistics (as at 1994) 1. The Canal was built by the USA & opened on 15th August 1914. 2. It is 48 miles long (77.1km) and takes 9 hrs (approx) to transit. 3. The Canal is administered by the Panama Canal Commission, within the Canal Zone, over which the USA still exercises control. 4. Under the Canal Treaty of 1979, the USA will finally hand-over control of the Canal to Panama on 31st December 1999. 5. 35-40 ships pass through the Canal each day and for each one, roughly 52 million gals of water flow out of Gatun Lake into the sea. 6. The 80 electric "Mules" cost $1.2m each when replaced in 1990 (the previous steam-locomotives cost $115,000 each in 1964) 7. The Toll for passage is currently $2.21 per gross registered ton (so Sagafjord's bill today was about $54,000 or $90 per passenger) (right) Sagafjord in Gatun Lock (Previous Ship photo)

		Sunday 11th September A Day at Sea (in the Caribbean) Out into the Caribbean and at last the skies were clear and it was less humid. Along with a handful of others, we had a private invitation to visit the Bridge; a nice gesture, probably from our receiving our 100-day pins!

The Benefits of a Bridge Visit....
I was curious why, on our way towards Panama 2 days ago, we seemed to detour south (away from our destination) before turning north again into the Bay of Panama. The Navigation Officer explained that the ship turned southwards into the wind for a couple of hours in order to blow soot from the funnel well away from the aft decks!

I also asked why the stabiliser controls indicated that only one of them seemed to be working. The Officer quietly admitted that one of the stabilisers was undergoing maintenance but his manner also told me that he didn't want this information widely known!

With another interesting presentation on supersonic flight by British Airways' Captain Richard Roas, today a European Lunch Buffet was set-up in the Ballroom, encouraging us to eat far too much! But after sleeping that off in the afternoon, there was another exceptional menu from well-named Chef de Cuisine, August Göbl for the International Dinner Open Dinner Menu >>

		The bi-lingual Programme Covers (left) and English & German daily announcements still reflect the ship's Norwegian America Line heritage, so popular with the Germans, although but a handful were on board this cruise. Open Programme >> But strangely absent was the unique style of Danny Leone, for many years the ship's Cruise Director, for on this cruise, we had a "new guy", Bob Haines, who would insist on singing as well!

		Monday 12th September Oranjestad, Aruba Just 20 miles long (33km) and 17 miles (27km) off the coast of Venezuela, Aruba is one of the "ABC Islands" of Aruba, Bonaire & Curacao, which in turn form part of the Netherlands (or Dutch) Antilles in the Caribbean. Since the

1980's, Aruba has developed more autonomy and was expected to become independent by 1996 but following a convention in The Hague in 1990, the transition process was postponed indefinitely.

Dutch Architecture in Wilhelminastraat		Hooiberg ("The Hay Stack")		The Natural Bridge at Andicari Carved by the sea from the limestone rock

Generally hot, flat and arid, the landscape is peppered with cactii and "Divi Divi" trees, bent in the direction of the prevailing Trade Winds. They were strong too! On the northern coast, the sea had carved-out a Natural Bridge in the limestone rock (Unfortunately, this collapsed in 2005!).

A "Divi Divi" Tree Bent by the prevailing winds		Rocky barren landscape		Andrew (in cactii)		The Rock Gardens at Casibari

The Rock Gardens at Casibari are another geological peculiarity of Aruba. Huge boulders are scattered in the otherwise flat landscape, surrounded by cactii, lizards and divi-divi trees. Ancient "petroglyphs" were carved on some of them by the early Arawak & Carib Indians. No-one knows how the boulders got there but if you care to climb to the top in this heat, they offer a fantastic view!

Identical to the Enterprise we first experienced in Bermuda in 1989, Atlantis Submarines now operate here too and I decided to have another go. With large windows, it isn't claustrophobic for its 44 passengers as the sub glides 50ft deep over the coral reef. However, on this occasion, there wasn't as much to see and I didn't enjoy it as much as I did the first time in Bermuda.

		Tuesday 13th - Wednesday 14th September 2 Days at Sea En-route to Ft Lauderdale, the ship was rolling quite noticeably; unofficially, it was trouble with the stabilisers! At one point, the ship swung hard over and all the sun-loungers, complete with occupants, slid across the deck!

But no-one seemed too bothered; most thought it rather exciting - even if you could hardly stand up straight! But things settled down to a more gentle rolling after that. Tuesday evening was the Captain's Gala Farewell Dinner & Baked Alaska Parade. With Caviar, Oysters and Dover Sole, all the stops were pulled out! Open Farewell Dinner Menu >>

Another event I always looked forward to was the Norwegian Folk Dancing traditionally given by members of the crew in Norwegian Costume. It must be a happy crew that are willing to devote their spare time to entertaining their passengers in this way.

The event I never look forward to is packing, which always makes the last day somewhat "low-key".

		Thursday 15th September Port Everglades, Ft Lauderdale, USA It was nice to finish somewhere different from where we started, even if we'd been here before! But it was still frustrating having to wait our "turn" to be called-off. It was also nice that Cunard still managed to maintain another tradition from the ship's NAL days; our souvenir gift of a Rosenthal Ashtray! (left) Pier 66 Hotel & (right) Farewell to Sagafjord & our 7th Rosenthal Souvenir Ashtray

We were eventually transferred to our day-room accommodation at the nearby Pier 66 Hotel and with a few hours to spare before we had to transfer to the Airport, we took a scenic ride on the local Water-Taxi up the Intra-Coastal Waterway. But from the hotel balcony, we had one last view of our beautiful Sagafjord, little realising that it would be just that - our last!

A Sad Ending
Cunard suffered badly in 1994; having bought the prestige Royal Viking Line in a desperate attempt to revive its "de-luxe" image, QE2's refit over-ran, ruining her inaugural cruise and resulting in bad publicity and heavy compensation claims. By 1995, Cunard was making heavy losses and a major restructuring was announced in which Sagafjord, now 30 years old, would be withdrawn from service in September 1996, effectively cancelling our plans to travel on her one more time.

However, in February 1996, en-route from Hong Kong to Kota Kinabalu and mid-way through her final World Cruise for Cunard, Sagafjord was crippled by a generator fire and had to be towed to the Philippines by tugs. Her career with Cunard was finished.

Cruise Mileage: 4,786 nautical miles
Total Mileage to date: 45,529 n miles