On-Board Accommodation
There were just 6 of us this time and we were each fortunate enough to be in one of the spacious Sky Suites on Resort Deck 12; with a 42-inch plasma TV and heaps of storage space, other extras included Champagne, a fully-stocked fridge, umbrellas, robes & slippers, and our own coffee maker!

		The bathroom (see below) was also spacious, with lots of storage and a full-size bath incorporating a respectable shower see additional photo >> Our Sky Suite also boasted a substantial balcony with a table and 2 loungers; for me, this was ideally sheltered by the overhang from the deck above. see right >>

The main difference in the Suites however, is the provision of Butler Service and I am ashamed to say that we became addicted to having breakfast served in our Suite by our Butler John, as well as his trolley-service Afternoon Tea and the regular delivery of canapes before dinner each evening!

A Black Mark for Celebrity though!
The first night was disturbed, however, by clumping noises from the Oceanview Cafe directly above. In fact on subsequent nights, we were disturbed at one point or another by the sound of trolleys being rolled back and forth, the banging of servery doors and even the occasional dropped bucket! The pity is that better soundproofing of the deck-head could have prevented this problem and on this, the third ship of the class, there is no excuse not to have done something about it. As it is, it is left to the crew to exercise "special measures", so as to minimise this problem. Having said that, I must say that, once we complained about it, the staff and crew tried hard to reduce the problem. Nevertheless, I shall not book a suite or cabin beneath the cafe again!

The first afternoon was spent frantically unpacking, discovering the ship, attending the obligatory Boat Drill and then congregating in Anne & Andrew's Suite for our own "Champagne Sailaway".

Two bottles of complimentary Champagne were clearly not enough, as we met again for pre-dinner drinks in the Sky Observation Lounge, only to find ourselves on the fringe of a Quiz with a rather loud quiz-mistress! Fortunately, both were short-lived and we made the 10-deck descent to dinner.

		Moonlight Sonata Dining Room Having already seen pictures before, I wasn't sure I would like this room but I need not have feared; with its grand glass staircase and shining sculptural bottle-tower in the shape of a ship's bow, it was stunning, our table had a splendid view and we had two excellent female stewards, Karolina & Zuzanne.

Our first night's menus were pretty impressive too! Classics Menu >>, First Night Menu >>

Not only was there a nightly changing menu with a substantial selection on it, but there was also the "Menu Classics" to choose from every night, giving us an outstanding choice. After our slightly disappointing experience in the Britannia Restaurant aboard QM2 in January, the contrast was noticeable and when the food arrived, it did not disappoint either! In fact, it was probably one of the best first night dinners I can remember in a long while!

Andrew then proceeded to win $175 at Roulette in the appropriately named Fortunes Casino!

Saturday 22nd - Sunday 23rd May 2 Days at Sea

		The Solarium It's a shame there's no Thallassatherapy Pool, like on Constellation and Millennium but the small pool in the vast Solarium proved adequate for my morning swim; but with two or three others, it can get a bit crowded! They could do with a clock on the wall too!

In the morning, we enjoyed a complimentary Captain's Club Wine Tasting given by Mike Pereira, the same excellent Somelier we had on Constellation. Then lunch in the Oceanview Cafe proved excellent. Cafeterias aboard ships are not my favourite feature but I was impressed; it works well.

After such a splendid first night Dinner, we were all looking forward to tonight's Formal Dinner. However.....

Formal Night - and Disaster in the Dining Room! Strangely, our second night in the Moonlight Sonata Dining Room turned into something of a disaster. For some reason, our main steward, Karolina, was off "poorly" and our section was assigned a temporary steward from another restaurant. Unfortunately, he was clearly out of his depth and my innocently asking him to light the table candle when we all sat down probably didn't help! Slow, with mixed-up orders, we were on our 2nd bottle of wine before our Appetizers arrived and Andrew skipped his main course after 2 wrong orders were delivered. Evidently aware of the problem, the Assistant Maitre d' apologised and things should have improved; but they got worse, with more delays.

Eventually, it was getting so late that we all decided to skip dessert but then the coffees were poured and we were left without milk or sugar! Poor Zuzanne was doing her best but she wasn't in charge, so was obliged to keep her peace. I couldn't stand it any more and at 10.50 I left for the Show in disgust. I had words with the Assistant Maitre D' on the way out!

Next day's Wine Pairing Seminar wasn't free but at $20 was excellent value, informative and fun.

With calm seas & blue skies, I went to investigate the imaginative Lawn Club, with its real grass and innovative Hot Glass Show but I found it too windy up here when the ship was under way.

						Play video >>
The Lawn Club & Hot Glass Show		Decks of sweaty bodies!		5 o'clock is Martini Time! A theatrical performance by the Bartender				Sky Observation Lounge

On the more sheltered sun-decks however, the sight of all those hot sweaty bodies was too much and I retreated to the sanctuary of our Suite, where Afternoon Tea was served by John the Butler!

We then gathered in the Martini Bar for what has become our regular 5 o'clock event. My Lychee Martini slipped down nicely as we sat at the frosted bar to witness the Bartender's little show.

However, we then had to get ready for the Senior Officers Cocktail Party, another complimentary event from the Captain's Club, where there was plenty more to drink! We had booked Dinner tonight in the Tuscan Grille and we were hoping it would be better than our experience last night!

		Tuscan Grille Menus: Starters, Soups & Salads >>, Pasta & Entrees >> There's normally an additional $30 cover charge here but as Suite passengers, this booking was complimentary. With a spectacular sea-view, the Italian-style menu was presented with exceptional flair while service from the stewards was attentive without being obseqious. It was wonderful!

		Monday 24th May Funchal, Madeira As we had booked an afternoon excursion, in the morning we took advantage of the absence of other passengers to relax in the quiet calm of Solstice Deck. From our vantage point high atop the ship, you could see the famous Reid's Palace Hotel, a favourite retreat of Winston Churchill and still one of the finest hotels in the world (see photo right, dead centre, all in pink).

Fishing for Fun!		Santa Maria (1998) Replica of Columbus' flagship		Sunbathing Never mind the view!		NRP Cuanza (1969) Portugese Patrol Boat

Our afternoon excursion took in stops overlooking the pretty fishing village of Camara de Lobos, then a more dubious viewpoint surrounded by telegraph wires and half-demolished buildings followed by a refreshment-stop for a local concoction called Poncha - rather sweet and sickly.

Camara de Lobos		View along the coast towards Funchal from Cabo Girao		Cabo Girao 1,932ft (589m)		The little church at Ribeira Brava

The view from Cabo Girao, the highest sea-cliff in Europe, was quite impressive though.

Unfortunately, the deterioration in the weather put a dampener on things and it was not helped by our guide, a little old lady who couldn't stop talking. By the time we reached the tiny resort of Ribeira Brava, we were glad of the free time! But the sea-front was rather dismal and we sought the comfort of coffee and custard tarts in a cafe instead! The only other thing of interest was a small church; then we had to suffer another half-hour of our dreary guide, on the return to Funchal!

We were back in the Moonlight Sonata Dining Room for Dinner tonight and our absence last night had not gone unnoticed! Forunately, Karolina was back and on form and there were profuse apologies from both the Maitre d' and his Assistant. From tonight on, we never had cause to complain again! (right) In the Sky Observation Lounge, our regular evening rendezvous for pre-dinner drinks

Andrew was then back in the Casino after Dinner and defying all the odds, he won another $160 at Roulette, even betting on the same number as the other night!

		Tuesday 25th May Santa Cruz de Tenerife At the end of the harbour, you could see the splendid Tenerife Opera House by Santiago Calatrava See Photo >> but no-one wanted to walk that far! (Peter's photos left & below, right)

Celebrity Eclipse (Andrew's photo)		Plaza Weyler (Andrew's photo)		Lesley & Peter		Shopping! (& below) M&S - Simply Lesley!

Instead, Andrew, Peter & Lesley took a stroll into the town. I suggested they head for the famous Floral Clock in Parque Garcia Sanabria, the city park but it seems that shopping and the attraction of the local Marks & Spencer was too much for Lesley to resist!

				Gerry, Anne & I took the tour to Canadas del Teide, the National Park on the slopes of Mt Teide, and at 12,198 ft (3,718m), the highest mountain in Spain. Our guide for the trip was the rather lovely Angkor. (far left) Mt Teide & (left) Gerry & Anne with Angkor (in yellow)

On the slopes of Mount Teide Los Roques de Garcia		Eroded rock formations ("Cinchado", right) Los Roques de Garcia				Local Flora

Aside from a delicious drinking chocolate at our coffee-stop on the way, the highlight of this tour was the splendid eroded rock formations at Los Roques de Garcia. These formations are still being eroded today and will eventually fall down but tourists are kept strictly within marked walkways, while local indiginous plants are encouraged to flourish in the desert landscape.

		The Mt Teide Observatory (left) was set up in 1964 for astronomical study but superseded in 1985 by the larger telescopes on the nearby island of La Palma. In Santa Cruz, the inter-island steamship "La Palma" of 1912 (see right) is undergoing restoration.

Wednesday 26th May Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

Today we each chose the all-day Intensive Gran Canaria tour, as it seemed excellent value and would cover parts of the island not otherwise seen on a more usual resort package-holiday here.

John, Andrew & Gerry have each had holidays in Gran Canaria, so travelling down the coast towards Maspolomas, I was hopeful that I might see something of their favoured resort area. However, with barely a sight of the famous lighthouse, the coach turned inland and up into the mountains.

Views from Degollada de las Yeguas Altitude 1,574ft (480m)								Las Tirajanas Local Winery

Climbing quickly through precipitous terrain, we had a couple of impressive photo-stops, including this one at Degollada de las Yeguas, before eventually heading for San Bartolome de Tirajana, where we were given a tour of a local winery before being allowed to sample some of its produce. To be honest, I've tasted better and was thankful of the cheese - although that was local too!

Crossing the centre of the island at its highest point, we met the cloud-bank from the north and only just managed to get a few pictures at our photo-stop before we were enveloped in rain-clouds.

Roque Bentaiga 4,606ft (1404m)		Roque Nublo 5,948ft (1813m)		El Fraile ("The Monk")		Gerry & Mark A rare shot!

Gran Canaria is famed for its eroded volcanic rock formations; many of them seemingly perched like sculptures on the top of the volcanic ridges stretching from the centre of the island.

		Now in drizzle, we proceeded to the village of Teror (photo left), where we had lunch of fish-cakes, potatoes, (more of that wine!), cheese and chicken, followed by ice-cream. It was OK but, as always, took so long that our next stop at a little private house museum The Caretakers of the Virgin was too much of a rush; and there was no guide and no information leaflet either.

The House of the Caretakers of the Virgin A typical 18th Century Courtyard House preserved as a museum (photos by Peter)						All of us!

All in all, not a bad day and excellent value at 39 Euros, incl. lunch - and wine, even if it was dire!

Tonight, we had booked the second of our 2 complimentary Restaurant reservations in Murano.

		Murano This was a gourmet experience with a Mediterranean-style menu served in an exclusive and sumptuous setting not unlike the Ocean Liners Restaurant aboard Constellation but service was less ingratiating. Souvenir Menu: Murano Restaurant Menu >>

I had the Quail & Arugula Salad followed by Murano Lobster prepared at the table. It was fabulous! And it was so difficult to choose a dessert, so I opted for the selection of all 6! See Photo by Peter >>
As Dad had also bought us wine tonight to celebrate his Birthday, the evening was most satisfying!

The Eclipse Theatre Spanning 3 decks, this had generally good sight-lines but I was still a bit disappointed at the number of columns. Production Shows so far, had been the usual "mish-mash" of songs but tonight's show, "Edge", was a modern compilation with good dancing, sexy colourful costumes & aerial acrobatics.

		Standing out amongst the usual mixed bunch of comedians and vocalists aboard were "Sound Decision", an excellent A Cappella Quartet and an attractive female String Quartet, "The Inspiration Strings". (Peter's photos)

		Thursday 27th May Arrecife, Lanzarote While the others decided to have a lazy day, it was just Anne & me on the excursion today, to the principal sights in the north of the island. (left) Celebrity Eclipse docked in Arrecife - photographed later in the day

		At Mirador de Haria there is an impressive view of the north-east coast and its cultivated volcanic terraces. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't very good initially and Anne spent more time in the shop than looking at the view! After an unexciting stop at an Aloe-Vera farm, where we were educated in the 101 uses of Aloe-Vera and where, in a shop that was a converted garage, we were encouraged to taste the farm's product (it tasted vile, by the way!), we at last arrived in perfect weather at Mirador del Rio in the very north of the island.

Mirador del Rio was the brainchild of local artist/sculptor Cesar Manrique, who in 1974 developed this spectacular viewpoint on an escarpment 1,558 feet (475m) high, overlooking the El Rio strait and the island of La Graciosa. Once a disused gun-battery, it now comprises a balustraded cafe, a souvenir shop and rooftop terrace, all cleverly integrated into the surrounding rock landscape.

Jameos del Agua The subterranean lagoon and lava-tunnel				The Auditorium		Anne contemplates The upper lagoon

Jameos del Agua was also the idea of Cesar Manrique. Here, a volcanic lava-tube has become a landscaped attraction of cafe-terraces and gardens. The subterranean lagoon is home to hundreds of tiny blind white crabs and one cavern is now a 600-seat auditorium with near-perfect acoustics.

After lunch back at the ship, I took the shuttle-bus into town for a brief reconnoitre, but it was by now extremely hot and everywhere was shutting-up for the afternoon siesta.

Puento de las Bolas The Castle drawbridge and main causeway dates from 1559			Castillo de San Gabriel (Rebuilt 1599)			Church of San Gines (St Genesius 1667)

Castillo de San Gabriel was first built in 1574 in order to defend Arrecife Harbour but it was destroyed just a few years later by Algerian Pirates. The castle was then rebuilt in 1599 and was used for military purposes right up until the 1950s. It now houses an archaeological Museum.

Friday 28th May
At Sea

		Highlight of the day was the Captain's Club Party, the equivalent of the old "Repeaters' Party"; there were around 1,000 members aboard apparently and there was lots to eat, demonstrations, music & entertainment and plenty to drink. (left) Our informal Group photo and (right) One of the delightful drinks stewards

Held in the Sky Lounge, the room absorbed everyone very well and the atmosphere was great. Andrew broke a record by managing 7 (or was it 8?) glasses of Champagne in little over an hour!

We held our own "Captain's Quiz" that evening in Suite 2153 where everybody complained that the questions were too hard! Andrew won with 14/26 - not bad, considering all that Champagne!

		Saturday 29th May Lisbon, Portugal Passing under the great suspension bridge, Celebrity Eclipse tied up at the Alcantara Cruise Terminal. Gerry, Peter & Lesley had booked a tour to Cascais and Sintra today but as Anne had not been to Lisbon before, Andrew & I took her on the shuttle-bus into the city, to take the walk up to the Castle of St George. (left) Celebrity Eclipse alongside in Lisbon - beside the 25th April Bridge

Praca do Comercio (named "Black Horse Square" by the British) & Castelo de Sao Jorge on the hill above		Castelo de Sao Jorge The view over the City

The shuttle-bus dropped us close to the main square, once named "Black Horse Square" for its then blackened statue of King Jose I at the centre. From there we walked up through the Alfama District, the oldest part of the city, before reaching the Castle. There is a fantastic view from the terrace.

The Ulysses Tower		Walking the ramparts		Elevador da Santa Justa (1902)		Peacock in the grounds		A climb, a castle and coffee and I'm happy!

Much of the 12th century medieval fortress still survives and after a relaxing coffee, a walk of the castle ramparts was called for! A more modern attraction is the camera obscura or "periscope" installed in the Ulysses Tower. Just one of the sights from here is the Elevador da Santa Justa, a 148ft (45m) high cast-iron lift built in 1902 to connect the lower streets of the Baixa District with the higher Carmo Square with its great convent, destroyed in the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake.

We descended the hill past the 12th century Cathedral, the oldest church in the city, and witnessed some of Lisbon's refurbished 1930's trams, still operating in its cobbled streets.

Lisbon Tram (Andrew's photo)		The Cathedral (dating from 1147)		Statue of Christ The King		The 25th April Bridge & Statue of Christ The King

After lunch, I took the riverside Promenade beyond the Bridge to the Monument to the Discoveries.

With a main span of 3,323ft (1,013m), the Salazar Suspension Bridge was the 5th longest in the World when it was opened in 1966. It was renamed the "25th April Bridge" after the 1974 revolution in Portugal. The train-deck was added in 1999 beneath the roadway when the towers were raised and an extra set of suspension cables installed to carry the extra weight. Across the river is the Statue of Christ the King, inaugurated in 1959 and rising 732ft (223m) above the River Tagus.

Unfortunately, it turned out to be a much longer walk than I expected, especially in the hot afternoon sun and I motivated myself with the promise of an ice-cream when I got there!

				Monument to the Discoveries Also known as the "Monument to Henry the Navigator", it was originally built for the Portuguese World Fair in 1940 and then rebuilt in concrete in 1960, for the 500th Anniversary of the death of Prince Henry "The Navigator". It depicts the sails and bow of a ship, with the figures of famous 15th & 16th century explorers & cartographers, headed by the Prince at the prow.

The view West Belem Tower		The Wind Rose & World Map	The view North Jeronimos Monastery			The view East & the River Tagus Eclipse, the Bridge & Christ Statue

The centre of the Monument is a monolith standing 171ft (52m) high, with an engraved sword in the form of a cross facing the St Jeronimos Monastery opposite the site, across a mosaic-tiled piazza depicting a Wind Rose 164ft (50m) across, containing a map of the World and the routes of the more famous Portuguese exlorers. Reached by elevator, there's a fine view from the top!

After such an exhausting walk to get there, I managed to get the train back. However, while I had every intention of paying for a ticket, there was no-one to explain the Portuguese machine that confronted me, so I got on the train anyway. Fortunately, I was never asked to show my ticket!

		Meanwhile, Gerry, Peter & Lesley had taken the organised tour via nearby Cascais to Sintra, a picturesque mountain town, home to 2 palaces, including a Royal Summer Palace as well as an 8th Century Moorish fortress. For Lesley, there was no shortage of shops too; you could even buy organic soap in a range of flavours, including chocolate! (see right) All hand-made in Italy!

In glorious weather, we made our 5.00pm departure, slipping out under the great 25th April Bridge.

Clearance beneath the Bridge is about 230ft (70m) at high tide, so believe it or not, there was a good 45ft (13.5m) clearance above the funnels (slightly less above the forward mast, which rises 200ft (61m) above the water). Here you can see the train deck, added in 1999 under the roadway.

As we sailed back down the River Tagus, we were treated once again to its spectacular sights; the St. Jeronimos Monastery, the Monument to the Discoveries and the 16th Century Belem Tower.

Henry The Navigator's Monument (1960) and St. Jeronimos Monastery				Belem Tower (1521)		Champalimaud Centre For Medical Research (2010)

Just beyond the Belem Tower, we passed the brand new headquarters costing 100m Euros for the Champalimaud Foundation, a Lisbon-based charitable research foundation set up in 2004 at the bequest of the late Antonio de Sommer Champalimaud, Portugal's wealthiest industrialist.

		Tonight Gerry, Lesley & I dined in Qsine, where a pan-World menu is served with imagination, selected from an i-Pad. Our Balinese "culinary tour-guide" Sambor was giggly & enthusiastic and for some reason, convinced Lesley & I were married! It was all good fun and a very different dining experience.

Here the Lobster Escargot was divine and the Filet Mignon simply melted on the tongue but the desserts didn't seem as exciting and choosing them from a kind of "Rubik's Cube" was just silly!

Alternative Dining Venue Qsine				Me & Lesley (my "wife"!) and Gerry		The Masquerade Theme Party in "full swing" in the Grand Foyer

By the time we had finished Dinner, the Masquerade Theme Party was well under way in the Grand Foyer. I'm not one for discos but I must say the atmosphere had a lovely feel about it and Andrew and "the Girls" were soon on the floor vieing for the attention of one of the professional dancers!

		Sunday 30th May Vigo, Spain Having never been here before, I had no idea that, not only is Vigo one of the largest fishing ports in the World but as a city, it is not unattractive and its easy accessibility for cruise-ship passengers makes it a perfect tourist stop. (left) From the fortress of El Castro above the city, the Monument to the Rande Galleons lost in 1702

The most popular excursion is that to the world-famous pilgrimage site of Santiago de Compostela (which Dad & I visited in 1995 see here >>) but today, instead, we all decided to take a more modest tour which began with a photo-stop at the Monument to the Rande Galleons, lost in a battle with the British in 1702; it is rumoured that treasure still remains in the wrecks sunk in the estuary.

The Battle of Vigo Bay in 1702 mentioned above is not the only disaster in Vigo's history. In 1585 and 1589 the city was raided by the British & Dutch led by Francis Drake who temporarily occupied it, leaving many buildings burned. Several decades later a Turkish fleet tried to attack the city and as a result, the city walls and fortress of El Castro were built in 1656 during the reign of King Philip IV of Spain. But again, in 1719, because a Spanish fleet which departed from Vigo attempted to invade Scotland in support of the Jacobites, the city was occupied for ten days by the British. Our Guide seemed quite pleased telling us all this!

The main destination for our tour however, was the resort of Bayona La Real about 12 miles away.

Bayona La Real & its 17th century fortress		Alfonso IX		The Cies Islands & the Prince's Tower				Santiago Battery

Granted a royal charter by King Alfonso IX in 1201, it was here that news arrived aboard "La Pinta" of the discovery of the New World in 1492 by Christopher Columbus and there's a replica of the tiny ship in the harbour see photo >>. It's incredible that such a tiny ship ever made it across the Atlantic!

The town's medieval fortress was enlarged by King Philip IV of Spain, who made his palace here at the Monte Real Palace, which is today a luxury Parador set in landscaped gardens surrounded by the 17th century walls from which there are beautiful views out to the Cies Islands in the estuary.

		In the afternoon, I decided to explore some of the Old Quarter close by the Terminal and of course, I found everywhere sleepy or closed-up for siesta. By the Marina, the Art Deco Vigo Royal Yacht Club caught my eye, designed just like the fore and aft parts of a ship. (left) The Co-cathedral of Santa Maria de Vigo (1816-36) and (right) Perfect for an afternoon siesta; the park of Plaza de Compostela

Celebrity Eclipse at the Liner Terminal		Hey, Daddie's showing his bum again!		Fore & Aft The splendid Art Deco design of the buildings of the Vigo Royal Yacht Club

After an enexpectedly pleasant stop-off in Vigo, we celebrated with Double Martini-time; and after 2 "Apple Martinis", I was well and truly plastered!

This evening was our 2nd and last Formal Night, so we gathered for the usual official photos and then pre-dinner drinks in Cellar Masters for a change; but it wasn't as nice as "our Sky Lounge"!

Our Group		Peter & Zuzanne		Walking Out! Gerry & Anne with Karolina		The Show

Tonight's show in the Theatre, entitled "Eclipse - The Show", was the most elaborate and acrobatic so far; an extravaganza of costumes, ballet & circus-style acrobatics - quite brilliant!

Monday 31st May Back Across the Bay of Biscay

While the crossing of the Bay was quite calm, the weather had deteriorated and had become chilly and windy. So, "Guest Questionnaires" filled-in, Andrew, Gerry, Anne & I occupied the rest of the morning drinking Irish Coffees in the Passport Bar on Deck 3!

		Play video >>
Martini Time in the Martini Bar A Fond Farewell to the 5 o'clock Martini Club!				The Moonlight Sonata Dining Room		Tonight's Menu		Fortunes Casino Appropriately named!

Packing on the last day is always an unwelcome chore but at 5 o'clock, the Martini Club assembled as usual. This time, one of our regular bar stewards made his farewell to us on video!

Dinner too was no half-hearted affair and as if to make a point, the menu included Montrachet Cheese & Potato Gratin, a favourite of mine first discovered aboard Galaxy in 2005. I felt truly spoiled when, as a finale, Lesley had secretly arranged for some chocolate-dipped strawberries for dessert, another or my long-time favourites.

Andrew then closed the cruise with a final coup when, for the 3rd time, he won $120 at Roulette in the appropriately-named "Fortunes Casino". Having lost his good friend Anny to leukemia in 2006, it was perhaps sentimental to always bet on her Birthday Number 16, but it does make you wonder.

We shall be back on the Solstice-class in November next year, aboard Celebrity Equinox!

The full collection of photographs of all the destinations on this cruise can be viewed on my account at Captain Martini >>

Read more on Celebrity Eclipse at the Eclipse Gallery >> & see more photos of our Group "au naturale" in the Rogues Gallery >>